Sunday, November 28, 2021


Sauce Making!  

I’ve been trying out some sauces (both sweet and savory — ‘tis the season, after all!) — and, even if I say so myself, they came out quite good, edible even! 


The word sauce is Old French, based on Latin salsus (meaning salted) and comes from sal “salt.” The French might indeed swear by their four classic sauces: Espagnole, Velouté, Béchamel, and Tomate — mine are more basic, more practical, more everyday!  


Classic Brandy Butter Sauce


The most fun one to make (and to eat, for obvious reasons!) was the brandy butter sauce which is ideal to pour over Christmas puddings, pies, or any kind of dessert. It is rich, sweet, easy to make, and best of all, traditional! 


Ingredients


1/2 cup unsalted butter 

2 cups milk 

1/2 cup flour 

4 tablespoons superfine sugar

1/2 cup brandy or cognac

1/2 cup grated zest from 1 orange


NOTE: I used half a stick of Horizon organic unsalted butter, Horizon organic 2 percent milk, self-raising gluten free flour, and a combination of Rémy Martin and Fundador Brandy de Jerez from Spain. Vegans can substitute with almond or oat milk and cashew butter. 


Melt butter in a saucepan over low heat, add flour, and stir quickly to create a smooth lump-free paste. Add milk, stirring constantly. The flour needs to cook for several minutes. Do not let the base of the pan catch or burn. Taste to ensure flour is cooked — believe me, nothing is as yukky as raw flour! Use a hand whisk to break up flour lumps, if necessary. Add the sugar, a little at a time, until it is fully dissolved. Finally, add the brandy and keep stirring. Cook another few minutes (always on low heat). Again, taste-test the sauce to ensure the flour is cooked!  Add more milk, if too thick. 


Serve warm over a Christmas pudding or vanilla wafers or ginger cookies! Delish! As you can see in the pics, we served it with thin slices of warm plum pud and pumpkin pie!  


If you’re feeling brave, add a dash of Grand Marnier or some other liqueur just before serving. Don’t try to flambé it — leave that to the showy chefs at the cordon bleu restaurants! Don’t risk serious burns! 


White Savory Sauce 


This is a basic white sauce that goes with almost any steamed vegetable — but we always do it with cauliflower!  My Mum learned it in high school in Calcutta (Loreto Convent, Entally) where she was taught by Irish nuns. I guess it must’ve been something that the nuns used to soothe palates after the heavily spiced Indian food!  The only other person at whose home we ate this sauce was Aunty Margaret (Baker, nee Mullins), a school chum of Mum’s. So it is probably Brit/Anglo Indian in origin!  Growing up in Lucknow and then Delhi, my siblings and I used to love it: white sauce over cauliflower — here you go!


Ingredients:


2 tablespoons unsalted butter 

2 tablespoons flour 

1 cup milk

Salt (1/4 tsp)

Pepper (2 shakes) 

Optional

2 tsp Cheddar Cheese Grated

1/4 tsp Crushed Garlic or Garlic Powder

1/2 tsp Fresh Chopped Basil 

1/2 tsp Fresh Chopped Parsley


NOTE: Again, I used gluten free flour since I’m gluten-sensitive. If vegan, use almond milk and cashew butter.  


Melt butter in a saucepan over low heat. Add flour and stir until the butter and flour are combined. Pour in milk, stirring as it thickens. Break up any lumps. Add pepper and salt. Add more milk, if too thick. Taste if the flour is cooked. 


Adding the garlic powder, cheese, and chopped herbs enhances the flavor, depending on what you are serving with the sauce. Like I said, we always steam a whole cauliflower to go with the sauce but you can also use potatoes, button mushrooms, green beans, asparagus, or even pasta.  


Savory Brown Wine Sauce


This is the counterpart to the white sauce and has many of the same ingredients except for the wine and broth. It tastes best when poured over roasted vegetables such as Brussels sprouts, carrots, parsnips, squash or roasted meat. 


Ingredients:


2 tablespoons butter 

2 tablespoons flour 

1 cup milk

3/4 cup red wine

Vegetable broth (1/4 cup) or 1 Vegetable Cube

Salt (1/4 tsp)

Pepper (2 shakes) 

Optional

1/4 tsp Crushed Garlic or Garlic Powder

1/2 tsp Fresh Chopped Basil 

1/2 tsp Fresh Chopped Parsley


Melt butter in a saucepan over low heat. Add flour and stir until the butter and flour are combined. Pour in milk, stirring as it thickens. Break up any lumps.  Add pepper and salt. Taste if the flour is cooked.  Add wine and broth and more milk, depending on how thin or thick you want the sauce to be.


Those with small children can omit the alcohol altogether or use smaller quantities — but it won’t taste as good! When we were kids, we often had an egg flip for breakfast on cold winter mornings when we felt a cough or cold coming on — with a teaspoon of brandy — with no after effects!  


The best thing about these sauces is that they can be done ahead of time, refrigerated, and then reheated when the pudding or pie or roast — that you’re serving it with — is ready. For longer storage, pack sauces in airtight containers and freeze; when ready to serve, reheat on stove top on very low heat. 


Hint: To add richness, add two tablespoons of heavy cream or half and half before serving. Keep stirring to ensure the sauces don’t clump or congeal!  Beware the heavily coagulated “floury” sauces — keep them light and airy!  


Ludi Joseph

New York

November 28, 2021


NB: Brandy de Jerez comes from Andalusia, Spain. “Jerez” is another word for sherry and the region is famous for its sherry production.


 

Classic Brandy Butter Sauce 


Classic Brandy Butter

Steamed Cauliflower

Cauliflower with White Sauce

Making the White Sauce


Making the Brown Wine Sauce 





Saturday, November 6, 2021

Natasha McCoo’s Russian Salad and Lorna’s Eggplant Pakoras!

Culinary expert and frequent recipe contributor, Natasha Garrett McCoo, has posted several amazing recipes on Anglo Indian Kitchen, a popular group page on Facebook. Mum, who is a huge Natasha fan, wanted to try the Russian Salad. Here we go with a few tweaks. 


Russian Salad Recipe 


1-1/2 cups Potatoes, diced

1 cup Green Beans, diced 

1 cup Carrots, diced

1 large Red Pepper, diced 

1 large Apple, diced

1/2 lb Green Grapes, sliced

250 gm Can Diced Pineapple

1 cup Heavy Cream  

1/2 cup Sour Cream

1/2 cup Mayonnaise

Large Salad Bowl to serve


Boil vegetables (each one separately) until they soften but remain crunchy. Cool and mix all ingredients well. Cover dish with Clingfilm and keep refrigerated until ready to use. 


Note that we used less sour cream and Mayo; the original recipe called for a cup of each. It’s a matter of taste.  


This dish can be made ahead of time — a day in advance — for a party. Steaming potatoes with their skins on and peeling them later adds flavor as well as nutritional value.


Background: Russian Salad (or Ensalada Rusa) can be found in restaurants across Russia and is traditionally served at holiday gatherings and birthday parties with local variations in many Eastern European countries: Bulgaria, Hungary, Poland, and Ukraine. It was invented in the 1860s by Chef Lucien Olivier for a Moscow restaurant called Hermitage. 


Lorna’s Eggplant Pakoras


Last week we went to an Indian restaurant in Queens, NY called Ayna Agra in Bayside, which turned out to be surprisingly good - well, everything except the eggplant pakoras (spiced fritters) which were a bust mainly because they used onion instead of eggplant!  So we decided to try these ourselves. Lorna is the chef in the family!  Check out her version:


Eggplant Pakora Recipe 


1 large Eggplant (best from Indian stores) - Sliced, but not too thinly

Gram/Chickpea Flour - 1 Cup

Rice Flour - 1/2 Cup

Turmeric - 1/4 Tsp

Cumin Powder - 1/4 Tsp

Red Chilli Powder - 1/4 Tsp

Hing (Asafoetida) - a Pinch

Baking Soda - a Pinch 

Cilantro leaves chopped - 1 Tsp (optional)

Salt to taste 

Wok (or Karai) to fry pakoras 

Cooking Oil


Mix the gram and rice flours well with a half cup of water and add other dry ingredients. Whisk to a smooth medium consistency without lumps. The batter should be a bit runny. Add more water if needed. Drop in the eggplant slices and coat well with batter. (I made the mistake of cutting the eggplant too thin - don’t do that)! When all slices are well coated, deep fry on both sides in medium hot oil. 


Use any neutral oil with a high smoking temperature. We used Filippo Berio Extra Light Olive Oil for Frying and Baking. Using a slotted spoon, lay pakoras on paper towels to absorb excess oil. (Do that to avoid consuming too much oil - your arteries will thank you)!  Pakoras should be crisp and evenly brown. 


Serve with hot spiced Indian tea as a snack or with rice and dhal (lentils) as a meal. A green mint or coriander chutney goes well with pakoras or even tomato ketchup!  


Try this recipe with Potatoes (Aaloo) or Cauliflower (Gobi) or even the above despised Onion (Pyaaz)!  I recall that Pakoras and Adrak Chai (Spiced Ginger Tea) were the go-to snack on rainy afternoons in Delhi!  Happy eating!  


Ludi Joseph

New York

November 6, 2021


Lorna and Mum in Charleston, SC, 2018

Russian Salad

Eggplant Pakoras