SINGAPORE - remarkable country but lacking soul?

Singapore is proud (and justifiably so) of how far it has come since it exited the Malaysian Federation in 1965.  If not for legendary prime minister and patriarch Lee Kuan Yew, the country might not be where it is today: a financial capital, a "first world" economic powerhouse and the envy of its neighbours. But - with regard to the treatment of migrant workers - I wonder if it may have lost a bit of its soul! 

Day labourers who make the daily bus journey from Johor, just north of the border in Malaysia (where many guest workers come from) are "second-class" without the benefit of being citizens!  Most live on subsistence wages, cannot afford housing in Singapore and must catch a bus to return to homes in Johor every evening.  

Currently, foreign workers make up over a third of the country's total labour force.

Worst Riots in 40 Years

In December 2013, South Asian migrant workers - angered by a fatal traffic accident - rioted in the worst outburst of public violence that Singapore had seen in more than 40 years!

According to foreign press reports, the riot started after an Indian national was struck and killed by a bus ferrying workers from Little India to their "dorms" (housing).  Some 400 labourers charged the bus, overturned police cars and damaged other vehicles, injuring 39.  The incident sent shock waves through the law-abiding country.  

There were other recent signs of worker discontent.  In November 2012, a wildcat strike by bus drivers made headlines; the drvers were from mainland China and were demanding better wages and living conditions.  It was Singapore's first industrial strike since 1986; official response was swift: the strike was declared illegal, five drivers jailed, and 29 deported without trial.

The Little India riot has I think somewhat diminished Singapore's image as one of Asia's safest countries.  It has also stoked public concern about the sustainability of the country's heavy reliance on overseas labor - but, without foreign labour, what will happen to the giant infrastructure projects?

By 2030, the overall population is expected to increase to 6.9 million, of which 36 percent or 2.5 million will be foreign workers.

The vast majority of workers hold low-skilled jobs that are considered undesirable by Singapore standards. Construction workers earn a basic monthly salary of between S$460 and S$700 (US$368 and US$560) while the average Singaporean monthly wage is about S$4,433 (US$3,546).

Guest Worker "Dormitories"

Singapore's guest workers are treated like a sub-class.  Some are housed in reportedly very basic residential quarters called "dormitories."  Women and families are not allowed in worker housing.  When pointed out to us from the main road, it is obvious that the dorms are a far cry from the posh upscale Singapore neighbourhoods.

That sounds alarmingly similar to what happens in the UAE and Dubai where - according to the BBC and other agencies - South Asian "slave" labourers live in the most deplorable conditions; their passports are taken away by employers and wages are not paid for months!  Note that the ill-treatment of guest workers in post-recession Gulf Arab countries has not happened in Singapore (and may never happen) but it is indeed a slippery slope. 

The biggest dorm currently operating in Singapore is a 12,000-bed facility in Kranji but a new mega-dorm recently opened at Tuas South Avenue. As the country's largest integrated facility, it will eventually house 16,800 workers.

Singapore refuses citizenship to those without university degrees. This means that the majority of guest workers could never hope to qualify.

Poverty to Plenty 

When Lee Kuan Yew decided that Singapore should go it alone in 1965, there were many naysayers.  How could such a tiny country survive without natural resources or water?  But Lee had a vision!  He invited international investors and gave them tax breaks.  The Japanese - whose armies had only 20 years before overrun Singapore and committed terrible atrocities at Sook Ching and other places - were also invited to invest and they did!  

Following the discovery of additional war graves in the 1960s, Lee prevailed upon Japan to pay more compensation for war crimes (in addition to what the British had negotiated); in 1966, Singapore received a S$25 million grant and a S$25 million loan from Japan - but no official apology was forthcoming; it took almost 30 years more for a Japanese PM to apologise.

In one generation, Singapore went from poverty to plenty and transformed itself from an agricultural to an industrialised economy.  Its per capita GNP is higher than Britain; it has the world’s busiest port; is the third-largest oil refiner; and a major center of global manufacturing and service industries.  It is also one of the most important financial centres in the Far East rivalling Hong Kong and Tokyo: every international bank of note is represented.  

The dramatic skyline as seen at eye-level from the river cruise bum-boats or high up from the Singapore Flyer (giant ferris wheel) or the Ku Dé Ta restaurant topping the surf board-shaped Marina Bay Sands resort - is quite breathtaking!   At night it is hard not to be overwhelmed by the steel Supertrees lighting up the domed Gardens by the Bay or the lotus-shaped ArtScience Museum.  It is harder still to imagine that the futuristic Marina Bay Sands - that so dominates the skyline today - only opened in 2010!

The country has no native freshwater but relies on imports from Malaysia which delivers up to 250 million gallons a day. Imports account for 40 percent of total water supply.  The largest alternative supply comes in the form of reclaimed or recycled sewage. More than half the entire land area is dedicated to capturing rainwater.

Singapore also imports 90 percent of its food which comes from nearby Indonesia, Malaysia and Thailand as well as further afield from Argentina, Brazil and Uruguay.

Iron Hand, Lack of Civil Liberties

In Singapore, prosperity comes at the cost of civil liberties.  Lee said in 1965 that that the one thing he demanded from his countrymen was discipline!  He was often accused of harsh, strong arm tactics; denying civil liberties; jailing rivals and charging them with being Communist sympathisers.

Freedom of speech has been in short supply over the past 49 years; international and local journalists have been frequently censored while blogs and internet sites have been targeted and shut down. Government retains strict control over newspapers and television.

In the 2014 World Press Freedom Index compiled by Reporters without Borders, Singapore is ranked 150 out of 180 countries - the worst record for a developed economy; the US is ranked 46, India is 140 and the Russian Federation is 148 - all ahead of Singapore!

"Asian Values"

In Singapore, it is easy to get into a discussion about the differences between Confucianism and Western values. People think that Confucianism explains the East Asian economic boom but don't have an answer when you ask why the region was so poor for several centuries.   

First, some historical context. The People's Action Party - Singapore's ruling party since 1959 - was formed in 1954 by Lee and other political figures who were influenced during the Japanese Occupation by the slogan "Asia for Asians."  After independence from Britain, Singapore joined the Malaysian Federation in 1963 only to be ousted in 1965.  Lee was prime minister from 1959 to 1990 and remains a highly respected senior minister. 

"Asian values" was a 1980s term coined by the region's political leaders to challenge Western-style civil and political freedoms. They claimed that too much democracy and too many individual rights would destabilise social order; that Asians are more focused on family and social harmony; and that Western countries (with their chaotic crime-ridden societies) should not lecture Asia about democracy and human rights.  

Lee was fond of saying that a society where community interests took precedence over individual interests suited Asia better than American individualism.  He warned the West not to foist US-style democracy on Asia. Even today, Singaporeans continue to be critical of what they see as the breakdown of civil society in the West as well as the culture of guns, drugs, violent crime and the lack of hard work, savings, family loyalty and respect for learning.

Asian values were celebrated in the 80s and 90s because several countries were experiencing the so-called "East Asian Miracle" - a 20th century development phenom that witnessed the rise of the "Asian Tigers" (Hong Kong, Singapore, South Korea, Taiwan); and the "Asian Cubs" (Indonesia, Malaysia, Philippines, Thailand).  These countries rapidly industrialised between the 60s and 90s and attained high-growth rates.  However, in 1997-98, the East Asian miracle collapsed and - although those economies did eventually recover - some of the grandstanding on Asian values collapsed with it! 

50th Anniversary, New Challenges

Singapore celebrates its 50th anniversary in 2015.  A full year of gala events have been lined up to mark the golden jubilee, starting with the year-end Marina Bay countdown.  Will the next half century be different?  

Climate Change could well be one of the country's biggest challenges. Singapore is an island with 22 percent of its land reclaimed from the sea. This new land was created from rock and earth obtained from quarries and the seabed; the rock and earth were then dumped onto the surrounding seabed until new islands were formed.

If ocean levels rise as dramatically as they are expected to, Singapore (like the Maldives or Mauritius) could easily be (somewhat) submerged in the next 50 years!  It must adapt its public infrastructure to withstand stronger winds, higher temps, more intense rainfall and a rise in sea levels.

One would therefore expect a "first world" country like Singapore to be leading the charge against Asia's worst polluting, highest carbon-producing countries (China and India), but Singapore has yet to assume that role.

Seedy Neighbourhoods!

Despite the modern architectural marvels and fancy high rises built on reclaimed land, Singapore also has a seedy side!  Much to our dismay we discovered that our hotel was located in the mostly rundown Geylang neighbourhood with its perpendicular "lorongs" (streets in Malay).  The street we were on was not so bad but one block east or west was slum-like with smelly open drains, mosquitoes, and unhygienic eating places; it was enough to give us culture shock!  Our taxi driver had warned us about crime in the area.  I'm sure there are worse places than Geylang in the US (or India) but this was Singapore!  There were also Chinese women who looked like hookers on the street corners!

When I asked our tour guide about the policy regarding prostitution she jumped down my throat!  "Where did you see that - tell me!"  When I hesitated, she said, "I know where your hotel is!"  I was afraid that, as a result of my comment, "gestapo" police would descend on and arrest those unfortunate women; it was a sobering moment!

Unlike the rest of Singapore, Geylang has not been gentrified.  It is full of shabby shopfronts from a bygone era, dollar stores, karaoke lounges and (according to Lonely Planet) is considered the city's red light area!

Caning and Michael Fay

The "Michael Fay incident" - which happened in 1994 - is as fresh in people's minds as if it happened yesterday!  He was the American teenager who together with friends stole traffic (stop) signs, spray painted cars and was sentenced to caning. President Clinton called for leniency but the caning went ahead. It was a major controversy at the time with the attendant media hoopla!  Some commentaries treated the incident as a clash of civilisations - between strict Asian values and the Western concept of individual rights!

I recall being grilled about Michael Fay during a 1994 visit to Hong Kong by Chinese business women who also had a giant anti-US chip on their shoulder!   But it was more surprising to hear local Singaporeans (our guide, our taxi driver, other locals) still discussing Michael Fay in 2015!  Perhaps it is something they warn all visitors about!  We were also warned about soliciting, spitting and chewing gum - all banned! 

The Singaporeans I spoke with seemed to take pride in their "caning" laws which appears to be the punishment for everything from vandalism to rape to littering!  They didn't think it barbaric, whereas, in my opinion it's only a tad removed from stoning women for adultery in Pakistan or cutting off hands and feet for theft in Saudi!  

A euphemism for flogging, caning is so much harsher than it sounds.  Victims are strapped to a wooden frame and lashed across the bare buttocks with a long rattan stick or cane.  They usually become unconscious after the first blow; the marks on their bodies are permanent!   

Singapore is said to have one of the highest per-capita execution rates in the world.  Executions are carried out by hanging in Changi Prison at dawn on Friday.  By the same token, the country also has one of the lowest violent crime rates in the world; but human rights groups criticise the government for its severe punishments, such as mandatory death penalties for drug traffickers: 10 years ago, a young Australian was hanged for dealing drugs.

Chinese Majority

In my experience, Chinese minorities in Southeast Asia are usually wonderful people.  We had just come from Kuala Lumpur and Penang where we had delightful encounters with Chinese who were unfailingly helpful and courteous.  When Chinese are the majority however - as they are in Singapore - more dictatorial traits emerge and anti-US/anti-Western sentiments become more manifest!  

In most of Southeast Asia, people are afraid of two things - the older ones still fear the former Japanese Empire for their WWII war crimes and are afraid they may become militant again; the rest are afraid of Communism.  Many homegrown Communist movements (in Indonesia, Malaysia, the Philippines and Thailand) have been brutally stamped out.  

It is the same in Singapore with the Chinese - but to escape Communism they have embraced (and apparently thrive on) an authoritarian political system with few civil liberties.  

Maybe it can be explained by an unwavering faith in "Asian values" and a staunch belief in a well-ordered society - where the individual exists in the context of family, the family in the context of community, and the community in the context of country.  

Ludi.

Singapore, August 29, 2014

Text and Photos from my iPad

Photos: Singapore