Delhi - Part Deux

Lodi Tombs and Gardens 

The Lodi Tombs and Gardens - spread over 100 acres with 200 species of trees and 50 species of birds - are as beautifully landscaped and preserved as ever.  We saw the 15th and 16th century tombs at night on one of our long walks: the tombs of Mohammed Shah and Sikander Lodi, the Sheesh Gumbad and Bara Gumbad, and the Athpula Bridge. We also caught a glimpse the next day of tombs in Nizamuddin.  

Delhi's famed tombs, mausoleums and fortresses dating from the 12th to the late 17th century are the one thing that is so unique to India. Yes, Pakistan has tombs and yes, that kind of structure may have come from Persia (Iran) but the beauty of Indo-Islamic architecture owes a good deal to Hindu influences: the skill and craftsmanship of Hindu artisans balanced against the beauty and symmetry of Islamic art, finding its culmination many years later in the Tomb of Humayun and the Taj Mahal.  

The Archaeological Survey hasn't missed a beat. Judging from their work in the Lodi Gardens and Cambodia's Angkor Wat Temples I visited two years ago, I think that the preservation of historical sites is something that India may do far better than other countries. 

Mark Tully

We spent a pleasant evening with Sir Mark Tully, famed radio broadcaster for the BBC during some of the most momentous events in Indian history: the Emergency, Operation Bluestar, the assassination of Indira Gandhi, and the Union Carbide disaster in Bhopal. Tully - the recipient of numerous British and Indian honors - is the author of several books.  I had recently read aloud his piquant short story "The Ekka Driver" from "No Full Stops in India" to my friend's kids and they loved it!

We met Tully at his beautifully decorated home in Nizamuddin West where almost every inch of wall space is covered with original paintings and sketches. There was a Jatin Das sketch from more than 25 years ago of Lorna (who worked for the BBC) as well as the late Yedunandan, her colleague. 

Tully, who still does the occasional feature for BBC TV, lives with his long-time partner and Urdu writer, Gillian Wright; two noisy Labradors; and several servants, many generations of whom have worked with the Beeb. We also met author Satish Jacob, a former BBC assistant chief of bureau and later the ABC chief in Delhi; and Subhash Chakravarti, former bureau chief of the Times of India.

FAPS Reunion

Our high school reunion at the Dhaula Kuan Officers' Institute was a memorable evening of catching up with classmates we hadn't seen in many years and general nostalgia. There were several former service officers, including, the organizer Col. Vinod Bhargava and his wife Neena; and two spouses, Gen. J.J. Singh (former Chief of Army Staff and Governor of Arunachal Pradesh) married to classmate and former head girl, Anupama Miglani; and Air Cdre. K.B. Menon, married to classmate, Padmini Menon. There was also former head boy Deepak Kochhar and his wife Anita; Anita embraced and greeted us by name, much to our astonishment! Deepak had of course primed her!

In addition there was Shyam Venkatesh who, like us, is based Stateside; Hema Singh (now Sharma, who was also married to an army officer); Vinni Duggal, who retired from teaching at FAPS; Sudha Metre (now Tewari) who heads up the Parivar Seva Sanstha; Swaran Uppal (now called Kitty) and her husband Dr. Sushil Oberoi. Was it Padmini who said, we've heard of women changing surnames after getting married but our FAPS classmates had also changed first names - to add to the general confusion!  Swaran was now Kitty and Bhupinder (who didn't come) was now Rani!  

Sadly there were several no-shows: Sushma Kapoor (now Ramachandran), Bhupinder Sethi (now Sawhney), Vindu Mittal (now Goenka), Neera Gupta (now Goyal), Sid Chaudhuri (from Oz), Deepak Bhalla, and others whose contacts we did not have. We're hoping for a considerably bigger showing two years from now on FAPS Sports Day when it is traditional for former FAPSians to participate in the march past. Think of us oldies marching to Col. Bogey - with spouses and significant others whistling from the stands - and how fun that would be: holding ourselves upright, tummies in, chests out, eyes right!  Can't wait!

Gymkhana Club

Dinner at the Gymkhana Club, Safdarjung Road - where we were hosted by Asha and Choti Puri - was as great as I remembered it to be. The club also has the most fabulous parquet dance floor!

Once the sole prerogative of the ruling elite, including the Indian Civil Service and the Armed Forces - the Gymkhana is now used by the children of those former members. Though the normal waiting period to get membership is about 30 years, we heard that Rahul Gandhi recently became a member. 

Established in 1913, the Gymkhana was part of the grand design for Delhi's Imperial Celebrations by architect Sir Edwin Lutyens. There's something very "pucca" about the Club - the atmosphere is very old world British Raj. 

New Delhi, India

Nov. 24, 2014

Photos from my iPad:
Lodi Tombs, Gillian Wright, Mark Tully, FAPS Reunion, Gymkhana Club