The Theyyam Ritual and What it Means

I was fortunate to attend a Theyyam at the Parassinikadavu Muthappan Temple outside Kannur, Kerala. It was fearsome, frenzied and altogether fascinating!  

Theyyam has been done for thousands of years and dates back to a time when tribal animism was the most common form of worship.  Although present day Theyyam includes Hindu beliefs, the ritual is said to predate Hinduism.

A man with an elaborately painted face and costume accompanied by traditional instruments begins to strut, dance, call out, and sing out, getting louder, and more dramatic by the minute until he enters a trance. At that time he is considered a god! Worshippers flock to the temple in the hundreds to make offerings and receive the god’s blessings. 

Hundreds of Worshippers

It is a tradition handed down through families. Men prepare for their roles in their early teens and spend years learning the skills required including making costumes from coconut husks, painting their faces with vivid colors, and wearing huge eye-catching headdresses. The ritual can go on for hours, depending on how long it takes for the god to enter a trance as he dances to the drums. 

The day we went, the temple was jammed with hundreds of worshippers, easily five or six hundred in a very confined space. The temperature must’ve hit 110 degrees F indoors! The ceiling fans were switched off to ensure the giant oil lamps continued to burn brightly and provide light. I was sweating profusely and barely able to keep my balance with women and children pushing from behind. (The men’s section was a bit more disciplined). But it was all worth it to see such a spectacle! 

There are more than 400 kinds of Theyyam in Kerala and music, mime, and dance are an intrinsic part of all of them! 

Parassinikadavu Muthappan Temple

The temple is located on the banks of the Valapattanam River, 16 km from Kannur City and is dedicated to Lord Muthappan, believed to be a combined form of Shiva and Vishnu. Visitors make offerings of alcohol (toddy)! I was told that other kinds of alcohol (whiskey, for instance) are forbidden!  

All Castes (and Religions) are Welcome!

There is no religious or caste discrimination; all are welcome to enter the temple, which makes it rather unique. You can also see dozens of dogs roaming around; they’re considered sacred!  There are two carved bronze dogs at the entrance of the temple that symbolize Muthappan’s bodyguards. The belief is that he was very fond of dogs and there are many stories of miracles involving dogs. 

On entering the temple, you are given a little snack wrapped in a banana leaf: cooked dry lentils with fresh coconut slices and hot sweet tea!  This is not part of the usual prasadam or offering distributed after prayers (or aarti) as in other temples. Perhaps it was sustenance to prepare one for the nearly two hour wait for Lord Muthappan to appear! Whatever the reason, it was very welcome!  I found out later that the temple provides free food twice daily to all comers. 

Visitors from all over the world come for Theyyam and - thanks to Ramesh -  I’m so glad I got to bear witness!  

Brahminism Vs. Dravidianism?

Seeing trees, plants, and animals being worshipped alongside Hindu gods gives one a different perspective, especially someone like me who’s tagged along with the Ramaswamys to temples all over North America such as the Siva Vishnu Temple in Lanham, Maryland, mainly frequented by Brahmins!  Theyyam, on the other hand, is earthy, tribal, more Dravidian in my view, and certainly more egalitarian. As I said before, all castes and creeds are welcome!  

Kannan, my friend KK’s husband, told me the priests at the Parassinikadavu Muthappan Temple are often from the Thiyya caste, in itself an unorthodox concept!  In what universe is a priest not a Brahmin (that is, from the priest caste)? 

In Kerala, though, every rule that applies in the rest of India gets broken!  The Thiyyas (a “backward” caste or OBC), are a very progressive and well-educated community. We had Thiyya girls at Nirmala College who were light-skinned and light-eyed, supposedly  descended from Arab traders, sailors from Crete, or the soldiers of Alexander the Great!  Whatever the case, they are a high-achieving community with every right to preside over temples, if they so wish!

Unlike other parts of India governed by rigid caste rules, it is a breath of fresh air to be in Northern Malabar and experience strict Brahmin fetters being somewhat loosened, even cast aside, especially in the current highly charged political climate!  

Ludi Joseph

Kannur, Kerala 

January 21, 2020

 Parassinikadavu Temple (interior)

Parassinikadavu Temple (exterior) 

Map of Kerala 

Theyyam