“Pish-Pash” in Anglo Indian Kitchen! Let’s Define Anglo Indian!

I posted my first solo recipe (see below) on the popular “Anglo Indian Kitchen,” a group page on Facebook with several thousand members.

They are a likeminded global community based in India, Australia, North America, the U.K., and elsewhere with the goal of sharing recipes and experiences about growing up in India.The content is often funny, anecdotal, and compelling; brimmimg with nostalgia for a shared history, a common past, and a colloquial way of speaking.

The main objective is, of course, the posting of recipes (both old and new) for appetizers, entrees, snacks, and desserts - sometimes accompanied by detailed narratives of grandmothers and mothers cooking these dishes decades ago, and memories of what they said or did! The recollections evoke powerful images of childhood and of beloved “Nanas” and parents who’ve passed. Judging from comments and responses, the nostalgia is overwhelming! 

Origin of Anglo Indian Cuisine

Anglo Indian cuisine was created during the Raj. The British adapted Indian food to suit their taste. Some of the best known dishes popular in mid-19th century London were variations of Mulligatawny Soup, Khicheree (Kedgeree) and Pish-Pash! The cuisine continued to evolve and took on elements of the Indian regions that the recipe writers and cooks were from. 

What is an Anglo Indian?

You don’t need to be an Anglo Indian to become a member of Anglo Indian Kitchen, just a fan of the cuisine and culture!  

But what is an Anglo Indian?  It is a question that’s rarely answered to everyone’s satisfaction. 

According to the Indian Constitution, Anglo Indians are people of specific lineage descending on the male side from Europeans and on the female side from Indians. 

The most accepted meaning of Anglo Indian - that has evolved over time - is someone with mixed Indian and British heritage. 

Over generations, Anglos intermarried with other Anglos to form a community with a distinctive and cohesive culture; an education system focused on the English language; and social clubs that organized jam sessions, holiday dances, card games, and housie! 

Occupations

In India, the British government recruited Anglos into the armed forces, railways, post offices, nursing, and other professions while private companies hired them for their fluency in English. They were skilled teachers and educators, as well as athletes, musicians, and dancers. 

My siblings and I went to the Frank Anthony School in Delhi, an Anglo Indian institution, founded by Frank Anthony, the first Anglo leader and Member of Parliament, member of the 1950 Constituent Assembly of India and president of the Anglo Indian Association. We had many Anglo friends and neighbors, most with a strong sense of family and community.  

Exodus from India

Sadly, Anglo Indians were sometimes badly treated by both sides, British and Indian; they were looked down on, stereotyped, and made the butt of jokes. 

Seventy years after India gained its Independence, many Anglos have moved to more hospitable countries and - in my view - taken much of the joie de vivre with them!  

Amendment to the Constitution 

The Indian government recently did away with Anglo Indian representation in India’s Parliament. An amendment to the Indian Constitution removed the provision for the nomination of Anglo Indians to the Lok Sabha (two seats) and some state assemblies. 

The reason given: there were less than 300 persons of Anglo origin in all of India (surely, a joke!) when, in fact, their number is upwards of 150,000, according to the head of the association, Barry O’Brien.  

The misdeeds against minorities by the current administration in India have been many but the sneaky way this was done was so egregious and unjust. There was no pretence at consultation, regard for the community’s contributions to the country, or even a debate about why seat reservations were necessary in the first place!  

Pish-Pash!

But I digress! Coming back to my Pish-Pash recipe with Rice, Beans, and Potatoes...

If you’re not familiar with the word “Pish-Pash,” it means food that is neither too watery nor too dry! It’s a great Anglo word, redolent with meaning! I first heard it from my Mum and her school friend from Entally Convent, Calcutta, the late “Aunty Margaret” (Baker, née Mullins), an Anglo of Burmese ancestry. Our families moved from Lucknow to Delhi and met for Christmases, Easters, birthdays. (When we emigrated, they moved to England; we came Stateside)! I recall eating, at their Jorbagh home, Aunty Margaret’s Pish-Pash (a basic classic version, no frills!) made with daal, rice, mince, and butter - so yum!

Derived from the Persian word “pashpash,” Pish-Pash during Colonial times was a rice soup with small pieces of meat or vegetables - fed to toddlers - since it was soft and easily digestible!  

My recipe is vegan and meat lovers might think it dull; it’s not! If you’ve visited Cuba, Peru, or Puerto Rico, you know that rice and beans are a staple: nutritious, substantial, inexpensive, easy! This is a hearty comfort food made from leftovers and extras from the pantry. 

It’s my first “solo” recipe on Anglo Indian Kitchen! Full disclosure: I’ve posted a few items for my Mum; I helped with prep and took pics of the finished product for Buckwheat and Mushroom Porridge, and a cocktail staple from our Delhi days: green squash stuck with cubed/tooth-picked olives, grapes, pineapple, raisins, cheese! (We were thrilled with responses to those posts from members)!

Ingredients:

2 cups leftover rice (brown or white)

1 Can Black Beans (15 Oz/425 gm)

1 Can Red Beans (15 Oz/425 gm)

Note: I use drained/rinsed Eden Organic Beans as the cans have a BPA-free lining; but, if you prefer to soak and cook the beans from scratch, go for it!  

2 tbsp Almond Oil

2 Cups Vegetable Broth (or 2-3 tsp Vegetable Bouillon)

1 Onion Thinly Sliced

1 tbsp Shredded Ginger 

1 tbsp Crushed Garlic

1 tbsp Cumin Powder 

1/2 tsp Turmeric Powder

1/2 tsp Black Pepper
3 Bay Leaves

1 Lemon (juiced)

1 tsp Lemon Rind

2 dozen tiny Potatoes boiled (PeeWee, Fingerling, or other). 

Salt to taste

1 tbsp Podi (spicy “gunpowder” made from lentils, red chillies).

2 tbsp Almond Flour

2 tbsp Coconut Flour

Note: I’m gluten-sensitive; hence I always substitute almond or coconut flour for regular wheat flour; also, they taste better!  

Garnish: 8 Sprigs Fresh Mint Leaves (Coriander also works).

How to cook:

In a deep pan, heat oil. 

Add onions, sauté on low flame. 

Add ginger, garlic, sauté. 

Add water, keep stirring. 

Add cumin, turmeric, pepper, bay leaves. 

Add almond and coconut flour. 

(Mixture should not burn or catch on bottom of pan)

Add rice 

Add beans

Add boiled potatoes 

Add salt

Add more water, if needed.

Keep stirring 3-5 minutes for a slightly watery consistency. 

Add lemon juice and rinds

Add podi 

Garnish with fresh mint

Optional: Add 1-2 tbsp Onion Powder before the Flour. 

To ease digestion, add a pinch of Hing (Asafoetida) before the Cumin. 

Enjoy!  Let me know what you think!

Ludi Joseph

Washington, D.C.

June 9, 2020


NB: The below pics of Frank Anthony at the 1950 Constituent Assembly were taken at our 2016 FAPS school reunion and are of historical photographs.

Constituent Assembly of India, 1950. Anthony on far left. 

Constituent Assembly of India, 1950. Same pic, different angle!

Frank Anthony School, New Delhi, 2016

Anglo Indian family/historical (source: BBC)

                     

Rice, Beans & Potatoes: Pish-Pash