Sunday, November 28, 2021


Sauce Making!  

I’ve been trying out some sauces (both sweet and savory — ‘tis the season, after all!) — and, even if I say so myself, they came out quite good, edible even! 


The word sauce is Old French, based on Latin salsus (meaning salted) and comes from sal “salt.” The French might indeed swear by their four classic sauces: Espagnole, Velouté, Béchamel, and Tomate — mine are more basic, more practical, more everyday!  


Classic Brandy Butter Sauce


The most fun one to make (and to eat, for obvious reasons!) was the brandy butter sauce which is ideal to pour over Christmas puddings, pies, or any kind of dessert. It is rich, sweet, easy to make, and best of all, traditional! 


Ingredients


1/2 cup unsalted butter 

2 cups milk 

1/2 cup flour 

4 tablespoons superfine sugar

1/2 cup brandy or cognac

1/2 cup grated zest from 1 orange


NOTE: I used half a stick of Horizon organic unsalted butter, Horizon organic 2 percent milk, self-raising gluten free flour, and a combination of Rémy Martin and Fundador Brandy de Jerez from Spain. Vegans can substitute with almond or oat milk and cashew butter. 


Melt butter in a saucepan over low heat, add flour, and stir quickly to create a smooth lump-free paste. Add milk, stirring constantly. The flour needs to cook for several minutes. Do not let the base of the pan catch or burn. Taste to ensure flour is cooked — believe me, nothing is as yukky as raw flour! Use a hand whisk to break up flour lumps, if necessary. Add the sugar, a little at a time, until it is fully dissolved. Finally, add the brandy and keep stirring. Cook another few minutes (always on low heat). Again, taste-test the sauce to ensure the flour is cooked!  Add more milk, if too thick. 


Serve warm over a Christmas pudding or vanilla wafers or ginger cookies! Delish! As you can see in the pics, we served it with thin slices of warm plum pud and pumpkin pie!  


If you’re feeling brave, add a dash of Grand Marnier or some other liqueur just before serving. Don’t try to flambé it — leave that to the showy chefs at the cordon bleu restaurants! Don’t risk serious burns! 


White Savory Sauce 


This is a basic white sauce that goes with almost any steamed vegetable — but we always do it with cauliflower!  My Mum learned it in high school in Calcutta (Loreto Convent, Entally) where she was taught by Irish nuns. I guess it must’ve been something that the nuns used to soothe palates after the heavily spiced Indian food!  The only other person at whose home we ate this sauce was Aunty Margaret (Baker, nee Mullins), a school chum of Mum’s. So it is probably Brit/Anglo Indian in origin!  Growing up in Lucknow and then Delhi, my siblings and I used to love it: white sauce over cauliflower — here you go!


Ingredients:


2 tablespoons unsalted butter 

2 tablespoons flour 

1 cup milk

Salt (1/4 tsp)

Pepper (2 shakes) 

Optional

2 tsp Cheddar Cheese Grated

1/4 tsp Crushed Garlic or Garlic Powder

1/2 tsp Fresh Chopped Basil 

1/2 tsp Fresh Chopped Parsley


NOTE: Again, I used gluten free flour since I’m gluten-sensitive. If vegan, use almond milk and cashew butter.  


Melt butter in a saucepan over low heat. Add flour and stir until the butter and flour are combined. Pour in milk, stirring as it thickens. Break up any lumps. Add pepper and salt. Add more milk, if too thick. Taste if the flour is cooked. 


Adding the garlic powder, cheese, and chopped herbs enhances the flavor, depending on what you are serving with the sauce. Like I said, we always steam a whole cauliflower to go with the sauce but you can also use potatoes, button mushrooms, green beans, asparagus, or even pasta.  


Savory Brown Wine Sauce


This is the counterpart to the white sauce and has many of the same ingredients except for the wine and broth. It tastes best when poured over roasted vegetables such as Brussels sprouts, carrots, parsnips, squash or roasted meat. 


Ingredients:


2 tablespoons butter 

2 tablespoons flour 

1 cup milk

3/4 cup red wine

Vegetable broth (1/4 cup) or 1 Vegetable Cube

Salt (1/4 tsp)

Pepper (2 shakes) 

Optional

1/4 tsp Crushed Garlic or Garlic Powder

1/2 tsp Fresh Chopped Basil 

1/2 tsp Fresh Chopped Parsley


Melt butter in a saucepan over low heat. Add flour and stir until the butter and flour are combined. Pour in milk, stirring as it thickens. Break up any lumps.  Add pepper and salt. Taste if the flour is cooked.  Add wine and broth and more milk, depending on how thin or thick you want the sauce to be.


Those with small children can omit the alcohol altogether or use smaller quantities — but it won’t taste as good! When we were kids, we often had an egg flip for breakfast on cold winter mornings when we felt a cough or cold coming on — with a teaspoon of brandy — with no after effects!  


The best thing about these sauces is that they can be done ahead of time, refrigerated, and then reheated when the pudding or pie or roast — that you’re serving it with — is ready. For longer storage, pack sauces in airtight containers and freeze; when ready to serve, reheat on stove top on very low heat. 


Hint: To add richness, add two tablespoons of heavy cream or half and half before serving. Keep stirring to ensure the sauces don’t clump or congeal!  Beware the heavily coagulated “floury” sauces — keep them light and airy!  


Ludi Joseph

New York

November 28, 2021


NB: Brandy de Jerez comes from Andalusia, Spain. “Jerez” is another word for sherry and the region is famous for its sherry production.


 

Classic Brandy Butter Sauce 


Classic Brandy Butter

Steamed Cauliflower

Cauliflower with White Sauce

Making the White Sauce


Making the Brown Wine Sauce 





Saturday, November 6, 2021

Natasha McCoo’s Russian Salad and Lorna’s Eggplant Pakoras!

Culinary expert and frequent recipe contributor, Natasha Garrett McCoo, has posted several amazing recipes on Anglo Indian Kitchen, a popular group page on Facebook. Mum, who is a huge Natasha fan, wanted to try the Russian Salad. Here we go with a few tweaks. 


Russian Salad Recipe 


1-1/2 cups Potatoes, diced

1 cup Green Beans, diced 

1 cup Carrots, diced

1 large Red Pepper, diced 

1 large Apple, diced

1/2 lb Green Grapes, sliced

250 gm Can Diced Pineapple

1 cup Heavy Cream  

1/2 cup Sour Cream

1/2 cup Mayonnaise

Large Salad Bowl to serve


Boil vegetables (each one separately) until they soften but remain crunchy. Cool and mix all ingredients well. Cover dish with Clingfilm and keep refrigerated until ready to use. 


Note that we used less sour cream and Mayo; the original recipe called for a cup of each. It’s a matter of taste.  


This dish can be made ahead of time — a day in advance — for a party. Steaming potatoes with their skins on and peeling them later adds flavor as well as nutritional value.


Background: Russian Salad (or Ensalada Rusa) can be found in restaurants across Russia and is traditionally served at holiday gatherings and birthday parties with local variations in many Eastern European countries: Bulgaria, Hungary, Poland, and Ukraine. It was invented in the 1860s by Chef Lucien Olivier for a Moscow restaurant called Hermitage. 


Lorna’s Eggplant Pakoras


Last week we went to an Indian restaurant in Queens, NY called Ayna Agra in Bayside, which turned out to be surprisingly good - well, everything except the eggplant pakoras (spiced fritters) which were a bust mainly because they used onion instead of eggplant!  So we decided to try these ourselves. Lorna is the chef in the family!  Check out her version:


Eggplant Pakora Recipe 


1 large Eggplant (best from Indian stores) - Sliced, but not too thinly

Gram/Chickpea Flour - 1 Cup

Rice Flour - 1/2 Cup

Turmeric - 1/4 Tsp

Cumin Powder - 1/4 Tsp

Red Chilli Powder - 1/4 Tsp

Hing (Asafoetida) - a Pinch

Baking Soda - a Pinch 

Cilantro leaves chopped - 1 Tsp (optional)

Salt to taste 

Wok (or Karai) to fry pakoras 

Cooking Oil


Mix the gram and rice flours well with a half cup of water and add other dry ingredients. Whisk to a smooth medium consistency without lumps. The batter should be a bit runny. Add more water if needed. Drop in the eggplant slices and coat well with batter. (I made the mistake of cutting the eggplant too thin - don’t do that)! When all slices are well coated, deep fry on both sides in medium hot oil. 


Use any neutral oil with a high smoking temperature. We used Filippo Berio Extra Light Olive Oil for Frying and Baking. Using a slotted spoon, lay pakoras on paper towels to absorb excess oil. (Do that to avoid consuming too much oil - your arteries will thank you)!  Pakoras should be crisp and evenly brown. 


Serve with hot spiced Indian tea as a snack or with rice and dhal (lentils) as a meal. A green mint or coriander chutney goes well with pakoras or even tomato ketchup!  


Try this recipe with Potatoes (Aaloo) or Cauliflower (Gobi) or even the above despised Onion (Pyaaz)!  I recall that Pakoras and Adrak Chai (Spiced Ginger Tea) were the go-to snack on rainy afternoons in Delhi!  Happy eating!  


Ludi Joseph

New York

November 6, 2021


Lorna and Mum in Charleston, SC, 2018

Russian Salad

Eggplant Pakoras

 



Thursday, October 28, 2021

Father Prince Completes his Half Century!  

Father Joseph Prince, a second cousin on my Dad’s side, just completed 50 years as a priest — an extraordinary feat in any day and age but certainly in this one — and a major cause for a family reunion and celebration! In addition to his Golden Jubilee, Prince was also celebrating his Silver Jubilee as Pastor at St. Elizabeth Seton in Ridgefield, Connecticut. The parish was throwing him a grand party to commemorate the dual anniversaries and his lifelong service to the Catholic Church.


Since we were all fully vaxxed (Mum included), we drove up to Ridgefield, only an hour by road from Flushing, NY. We had sunny mid-sixties weather the entire weekend with a sharp nip in the air and the added bonus of viewing peak fall foliage: leaves resplendent in autumnal colors: flame, rust, scarlet, orange, yellow, gold.


Arrival in 1975! 


Prince, who studied at a seminary in Pune, India, was ordained as a priest in Coimbatore, Tamilnadu, in 1971. He had initially planned to travel to the Philippines to pursue a communications degree in mass media but dropped that plan when he couldn’t get a visa and decided on the U.S. instead. He was accepted at Fairfield University in Connecticut, arriving at JFK Airport, NY in 1975 with the kingly (princely?) sum of 100 dollars in his pocket, minus other resources, and no place to stay or work! That took courage! A kindly priest from Fairfield University arranged for him to stay free of cost with a group of Jesuits until he found permanent housing while attending school full time.


For the past nearly four decades, Prince has served in several different Connecticut parishes: St. Andrew’s in Bridgeport, St. Mary’s in Ridgefield, St. Peter’s in Danbury, St. Rosa Lima in Newtown, and St. Leo’s and St. Gabriel’s in Stamford. In 1996, he was chosen to lead the Ridgefield Parish and, during his quarter century at St. Elizabeth Seton, has overseen major renovations and additions to the building, including the installation of rather spectacular stained glass windows, donated by a parishioner.


Longevity and Success!


Prince attributes his longevity and success to his beloved congregation where he has close relationships with many families. He is humbled to have had the opportunity to officiate at milestone events in the lives of his parishioners: at baptisms, first communions, confirmations, marriages, and other sacraments.


A constant refrain when you speak with him are the notes of appreciation and humility he strikes. He said how “grateful, honored and humbled” he felt “by their love and affirmation” and gives full credit to his friends, his parishioners, his bishop, and fellow priests — including a “desi” mafia of mainly Tamil clerics who get together for Indian food every now and then!


The Golden Jubilee service was concelebrated by several priests. There was also a full contingent of more than 30 other priests seated on the side, a wonderful choir, and an organ.


Pastor Emeritus


Prince will stay on at St. Elizabeth Seton as Parish Priest until the end of 2021 and then transition to Pastor Emeritus. He hopes to have more free time next year to play “a bit of golf,” he said, but only after he has had knee surgery to correct a painfully arthritic knee. He considers himself lucky — only three other priests ordained with him are still living. 


We were fortunate to meet another cousin and his family, Nirmal Kumar, his wife Stella, and two girls, Reya and Sandra, also from Coimbatore who now live in Iselin, NJ. During our university days, the home of Nirmal’s grandfather “Uncle David” in Gandhipuram, Coimbatore, was a frequent and popular stopover and meeting place for many of our kith and kin!


We decided to spend the night before the big Mass at the Hilton Hotel in Danbury so the trip would be more relaxing — and Prince invited us all to dinner at the Rectory: to an elaborate Indian meal (loved the dhal!) he’d himself prepared; add serious cooking skills to his many talents! 


Sabbath Song


Prince is famous in my family for singing the Sabbath Song from “Fiddler on the Roof” (the Broadway play and film) at my sister Lorna’s wedding. I recall his voice being a velvety baritone — truly a memorable moment! I also visited him at St. Leo’s in Stamford and remember taking the Amtrak train all the way from Washington D.C. and being with his mother and family when they visited D.C.


When I told my pal, Lore, that we went to a fun get together to mark our priest cousin’s 50th, she wondered, “Is a priest anniversary party fun?” to which my response was “It actually was!” Her classic rejoinder, “Who knew priests could rock ‘n roll!”


It so happens that we now have Golden Jubilee priests on both sides of the family! Mum’s brother Rev. Monsignor Nicholas Soares of Staten Island, NY (formerly a Salesian in Mumbai, India) has also completed 50 years since his ordination during a visit to India by Pope Paul VI! Wonder if all that spirituality rubs off onto us lesser mortals!


Ludi Joseph

New York

October 27, 2021


Notes:


Fall foliage is a deciduous tree phenomenon (mainly East Coast), unknown in tropical climes such as South Asia. I think North America, Japan, and the Swiss Alps have some of the most spectacular views!


Pastor Emeritus is a title conferred on a retiring pastor by Church leadership and is a way of honoring him. 


By kith and kin, I mean my Dad’s brothers, cousins and their families. My Dad’s only sister, Lidwin — a nun — was the Mother General of the Presentation Order and invited Lorna and I to do our undergrad studies in Coimbatore.


Nirmal’s aunt Amala was in college with Lorna and I and sent us a lovely video greeting!



Prince at his Ordination, India, 1971

Prince at his Ordination, India, 1971

Prince at St. Elizabeth Seton Rectory, Oct. 23, 2021

At the Mass

At the Mass

Mass Program

City Official Confers Honor on Prince 

Nirmal, Reya, Sandra, Stella, Mum 


Fall Foliage

Fall Foliage

Kathy, Leslie, Moi at Lunch Party

Kathy, Mati, Lorna at Lunch Party

Mum, Leslie, Lorna, Moi




Wednesday, October 20, 2021

 Remembering “Choti”


We heard the shocking news today that one of our closest friends, Punam (Choti) Puri, based in New Delhi, had died from Covid-related issues. The sad news came from Asha, her older sibling. Both sisters have been our dear friends for many years and it is hard to think of one without the other. 


All Things French!


We met Asha and Choti at the Alliance Française soon after college. Like Lorna and I, they were crazy about all things French: not just the language, but also culture, cuisine, couture!  


Both went on to become completely fluent. Asha taught French studies at JNU (Jawaharlal Nehru University) and Choti (for a time) at the British School. Neither wanted to be hemmed in by boring office jobs or mandatory “9-5s!”  They were sought after as translators and writers and were involved in all kinds of advanced academic projects. 


We used to remark on their excellent accents: French, English, Punjabi, Hindi! One did not impinge on the other! That’s quite a feat in modern-day India!


My brother Leslie and his wife Kathy recall bumping into Choti in 1989 at one of Delhi’s historical landmarks, the 13th century Qutab Minar.  She was leading a group of French tourists! That’s the kind of person she was: interesting, surprising, eclectic!


Left-Liberal Secular Politics


Like other Indians of the post-Independence generation, we shared a kind of unspoken short hand: left-liberal secular politics, Westernized education, English-speaking homes. I remember open-ended political discussions that went on for hours — one did that kind of thing in Delhi then! We’d meet again after a few months and pick up seamlessly from where we left off, solving the world’s problems!  Like us, they came from a background of strong Mahatma Gandhi and Jawaharlal Nehru loyalists. Again, like us, the current dispensation caused them dismay! 

 

I remember visiting them many times at their sprawling Greater Kailash home near the M Block market. When I worked for the European Union, we organized several late evening “aloo puri” picnics on the India Gate lawns, often accompanied by singing, and (around midnight) gorging on cassata ice-cream from local vendors!  After the picnics, nearly a dozen of us crowded into their Maruti van, and Choti drove us safely back. 


She had a lovely personality and a genius for putting people at ease! The last time I met them was in December 2017 at the Hilton in Green Park but that was a short visit. We had a longer more memorable visit in 2014 when Lorna and I stayed with them. 


Fond Memories!


I recall the four of us (Asha, Choti, Lorna, moi) doing fun excursions: a walking tour of Lajpat Nagar that ended with a nostalgic visit to our childhood home in Vikram Vihar; a trip at dusk to the historic 15th century Lodi Tombs and Gardens that were awe-inspiring; and a journey to Connaught Place in the “ladies coach” of Delhi’s rather swanky metro, an activity that we wouldn’t have dared to do on our own! 


There was also a memorable dinner at that wonderful colonial relic, the Gymkhana Club, hosted by Asha and Choti. We spoke about how we’d all come to Davis Cup tennis matches at the “Gym” many years ago in what seemed like a bygone era!  Fond memories!  


I remember meeting their dad. Tall and distinguished looking, he had chaired the International Commission for Control and Supervision in Laos. The job of the Commission was to report on how peace agreements and protocols were kept after the Indo-China War. As a “freedom fighter” he was also closely associated with Indian leaders, Gandhi, Nehru and Khan Abdul Gaffar Khan. 


Their mother, a medical doctor, was always warm and welcoming. We had a running joke between us: she would say to me in Punjabi, half in jest: “please help find husbands for my girls” and I would say “Aunty-ji, If I could, I’d find one for myself!” The girls would blush, especially Choti!


For many years, both sisters spent time teaching poor children in their neighborhood to read and write. We attended one of these classes with the kids reciting their multiplication tables and nursery rhymes!


“She knew her time had come”


Both Asha and Choti had been fully vaccinated against Covid, but this was the time when the Delta variant was playing such havoc in India. There were numerous breakthrough cases among the vaccinated — in India and the U.S.  


Asha said that both of them got Covid in April-May. Choti never fully recovered, suffering from brain fog and severe depression, including stark personality changes. She was no longer bubbly and smiling; she kept to herself and wanted to be left alone.  


“She knew her time had come,” said Asha. There was a sad finality to that sentence. 


Ludi Joseph

Washington, D.C.

October 20, 2021



“Choti” is a North Indian term for “younger sister.”


“Aloo Puris” are wheat pancakes stuffed with spiced potatoes, a picnic staple popular in North India. (Those were my non-gluten-sensitive days!)


“Freedom Fighters” were men and women who participated in India’s struggle to throw off its colonial yoke and become self-governing. 


Photos from Facebook and my archives:


Choti and I at the Gymkhana Club, 2014



Choti (far right) next to Asha (blue shirt), Delhi 2018.

Choti seated with a friend, 2019.



Teaching Neighborhood Kids, Lorna & Asha standing, far right, 2014.


Excursion to Lodi Tombs at Night, 2014.