San Antonio Riverwalk

The Riverwalk is unique to San Antonio and one of the biggest attractions in Texas! Designed by visionary architect Robert Hugman, it was conceived in the 1920s to prevent flooding which had caused many deaths and for urban renewal, as per 21st century jargon! But then the Depression hit and the city ran out of money. Finally built in the 1940s under Roosevelt’s New Deal WPA (Works Projects Administration), the design “straightened” some of the famous river bends (meanders) by building bypass channels and small dams to regulate water flow — there’s been no flooding since! 

Many other U.S. and international cities have tried to copy San Antonio’s Riverwalk with different degrees of success. I can think of London and Singapore, both much larger. In my opinion, none have the same concept of winding limestone pathways and arched bridges flanking the river with wrought iron signage and semitropical landscaping giving a unique perspective to the city’s downtown, creatively lit up at night. 

Architecture

There have been several extensions of the Riverwalk since (including with the city’s hosting of the 1968 World’s Fair) connecting more of the attractions. All along the meandering stone pathways, one sees luxury hotels and apartment buildings weaving seamlessly into the architecture — on first glimpse, several seem to hang precariously over the water! 

One hotel, we were told, was built in self-contained units like building blocks, using modular design down to furniture and TV sets. Each unit was carefully stacked up, one on top of the other and lowered by crane. The building is apparently sturdier than anything else on the river and is featured in the Guinness Book of Records!  

Commercial boat and barge tours have been operating on the Riverwalk for several years — for recreation and transport. The river is regularly patrolled by police. Strict laws have kept the water looking (mostly) pristine with regular cleanup of the muddy river bed although it might be different in summer with holiday crowds and drunken revelers! 

Staircases and Bald Cypresses

Another unique feature designed by Hugman are the many (25 plus) intricate stone staircases, each of them distinctive or one of a kind, connecting the Riverwalk to street level. 

I also loved the bald cypresses, many of which are several hundred years old! Some are surrounded by “knees” or little oddly-shaped knobby tree protuberances that naturally grow out of the ground — for the express purpose, we were told — to allow the tree to breathe!  

Spurs

The city’s basketball champions, the San Antonio Spurs, have had their five NBA victory parades/cruises along the Riverwalk. 

The water is rarely more than three or four feet deep (although some parts are more than 20 feet) and even if tourists (or their phones) fall in, they are fished out safely!

Hugman Fired!

For his pains, Hugman was fired from the Riverwalk project prior to ground breaking, being accused of using too much money and too much stone! Sanity prevailed a few years later when he and his contributions were reinstated before his death. 

Hugman’s initial plan included gates and commercial shopping that would draw on the city’s Spanish heritage in the same way that New Orleans had drawn on its French architectural heritage. He wanted to incorporate colored boats like the “gondolas of Venice, only with Spanish design.” But his designs were too avant-garde for the city’s elders who were afraid that the bright fancifully-patterned limestone he proposed using would be a source of ridicule - little did they know! 

Hugman remained adamant that the limestone would mellow and that landscaping would soften any harsh effects. He was prescient, of course. To his dismay, the committee unanimously removed him from the project. But most of his key elements were already in place, and the architect hired to replace him (J. Fred Buenz) worked around them.

Hugman Reinstated!

In 1970, as the River Walk was becoming commercially successful, Hugman was rediscovered and honored with an award from the San Antonio Chapter of the American Institute of Architects.  

In 1978, he did the first striking of the bells named in his honor and hung at the Arneson River Theater. He died in 1980 and was buried in City Cemetery. 

Stewart

Our guide Stewart (a laidback Australian settled in San Antonio) really brought the stories home! His narrative was full of wry anecdotes of the city’s history.

One famous temporary resident was American country singer song-writer, Johnny Cash, he of the distinctive bass-baritone. Johnny romanced local beauty Vivian Liberto, just before he went to war. He returned and they married in 1934. Sadly, they did not live happily after. His life and career dissolved in booze and drugs. They split and wed other people. Johnny and Vivian’s oldest daughter Roseanne is also a well known country singer. Vivian was the inspiration for Johnny’s first hit single, “I Walk the Line” — also made into an excellent film starring Joaquin Phoenix and Reese Witherspoon.

Johnny’s Bench 

Stewart told us a funny anecdote about a favorite wooden bench on which Johnny carved his and Vivian’s initials when they were courting. Many years after his death, Vivian sought out the bench and found it on the Riverwalk. She tried to buy it but the city declined. It’s now stuck in a museum behind glass — where no one sees it. In its place is a copy! 

Other well-known residents have included black writers Alex Haley and Maya Angelou and current rap star Megan Thee Stallion. It is also the hometown of Tejano singer Selena who, in 1995 at age 24, was tragically gunned down by her friend and former manager. A bridge on the Riverwalk is named after her.

Ludi Joseph

San Antonio, TX

February 3, 2024

View of Riverwalk

Bald Cypress

Stoned Pathway 

Mariachis Entertain Diners

Sculpture of Cattle Drive

Robert Hugman, Architect 

Arched Stone Bridge

 Stone Staircase

Modular Designed Hotel

Trees Lit at Night

Night Lighting

Tree “Knees” let Trees Breathe

More Tree “Knees”

Crackle Birds at Riverwalk