Saturday, June 22, 2024

Evolution of Buddhism: Looking for Answers on the Silk Road


I traveled recently (May-June 2024) with a World Bank 1818 group of intrepid modern day “Silk Roaders” who recreated an itinerary that included several stops (once oasis centers) along the ancient Silk Route: Xi’an, Tianshui, Lanzhou, Dunhuang, and ending with Turpan and Urumqi in Xinjiang Province, after crossing parts of the Gobi and Taklamakan Deserts; other braver souls journeyed on to Kashgar.


I joined for many reasons: because the Middle Kingdom beckoned and who could resist, to meet likeminded fellow travelers, tread the path made famous by explorer Marco Polo (who may have exaggerated his exploits, say academics), and, chiefly, to discover why and how Buddhism evolved in the centuries following the death of the historical Buddha. It was all very adventurous and exciting; but would it deliver? 


Background 


Buddhism has a complex history spanning more than two millennia. Over time, its spiritual traditions have adapted to a range of geographical, social, and cultural circumstances, including war, invasion, and persecution. 


Originating around the Kingdom of Magadha in northeastern India in the 5th century BCE, it is based on the teachings of Siddhartha Gautama and spread throughout central, east, and southeast Asia. In so doing, it evolved into a belief system that was quite different from the original. Importantly, it survived, even thrived. (1)


Spread of Buddhism on the Silk Road 


Indian emperor Ashoka (268 to 232 BCE) of the Mauryan Dynasty, used his power to spread Buddhism. He famously renounced violence after the Kalinga War, one of the deadliest battles in Indian history, made Buddhism the state religion, and sent missionaries to neighboring countries. (2)


By the beginning of the Common Era, Buddhism followed the vast transcontinental network of overland routes known as the Silk Road into central Asia and China. It is widely believed that Indian monks traveled with merchant caravans to preach the new religion, entering China during the later Han period (206 BCE-220 CE).


Buddha’s rejection of the Hindu caste system (and of Brahmin priests who perpetuated that system) attracted followers. Unlike Hinduism, Buddhism did not have a negative view of trade and commerce, leading to merchants from the Vaisya caste converting to Buddhism. The concept of dana (or giving, charity) encouraged monks to ask for and receive donations from merchants. These donations helped build temples, dharamshalas (or monasteries), and rest stops on the Silk Road.


Trading centers along the caravan routes grew into large bustling multi-ethnic cities that provided a structure and system for Buddhism to travel east, helping it expand into a world religion with a diverse set of beliefs and practices. The Silk Road thus had a major impact on history, commerce, cultural exchange, and religious movement.


Back to India


In India, Hinduism experienced a powerful revival under the Gupta empire (320 to 550 CE). Threatened by Buddhism, orthodox Brahman priests touted the myth of the Buddha as an avatar of Vishnu; according to historian Wendy Doniger, this first appeared in the Vishnu Puranas (400-500 CE). By the 4th century, Hinduism had assimilated Buddhism (A.L. Basham, Indologist). I won’t repeat my theories of why I think Buddhism disappeared from India: see my earlier blog. More interesting is how and why it changed and flourished in China. (3,4)


During the reign of Chandragupta Maurya (322 to 297 BCE) — marked by a tolerance towards different faiths: Vedic and Brahmanical Hinduism, Jainism, Zoroastrianism, and Greek beliefs — Buddhism experienced its own short-lived resurgence in India. But it was a different kind of Buddhism that came back from China over the Silk Road, influenced by Taoist and Confucian elements as well as Zoroastrian fire worship and the Greek pantheon. 


Ability to Adapt and Blend


China may have been receptive to Buddhism because it was a way to live one’s life, including addressing larger metaphysical questions of Karma, suffering, and death. It coexisted (sometimes peacefully, sometimes not) with Taoism and Confucianism. While there were anti-Buddhist movements, most rulers seemed to embrace the new faith. 


Laypeople may have found Buddhism appealing because it challenged existing hierarchy and permitted all classes a role in spiritual practice; significantly, women were not excluded. Buddhism took on an essential Chinese character, blending with existing philosophies and folk tradition. As it became more inclusive, ancestor worship, family duty, and honoring one’s elders (existing in Brahmanical Hinduism) became an integral part of Chinese (or Han) Buddhism, as it came to be called. 


A scholar I recently met said that Chinese spiritual practice was marked by a kind of  “hodgepodge pluralism!”  A professed atheist, he was amused that some of his friends recited mantras in Buddhist temples while also studying Taoist talismans, and practicing ancestor worship, Feng Shui, and qigong!


Change vs. Stasis — Female Buddha


In China, non-existence of a creator god (central to Indian Buddhism) diminished in importance while Mahayana became dominant; as time passed, Buddha and his Bodhisattvas were worshipped as gods. (5,6)  


One might argue that, if a great religion remains static, it dies. Change could therefore be considered a positive. Change allows new modes of worship, new Bodhisattvas, and new ways to interpret Buddha, even as a woman. 


While gender-fluidity might be shocking to a purist, it is more acceptable to those already praying to female deities. Worship of the female has a place in most traditions. Buddhism has relied on the worship of Bodhisattvas identified as female and vested with feminine attributes like compassion and nurturing. 


It is generally agreed among Buddhist scholars that the Chinese figure Guanyin is the same as the one known in India as Bodhisattva Avalokitesvara. While Guanyin's history began in ancient India as a male figure, after two millennia in China, he was transformed from male to female and gained a new name.


Evolution of Guanyin in Art 


Prior to the Song dynasty (960–1279 CE), Guanyin was always masculine. Later images, which displayed both genders, adhered to the Lotus Sutra (scriptures) where Avalokitesvara assumes any form. This tracks with ancient Brahmanical Hindu belief in Ardhanarishvar (or half man, half woman), a manifestation of the destroyer god, Shiva, representing male and female energies in the universe.  


By the 12th century, Guanyin began to be interpreted as female: a mother goddess and patron of mothers. She is shown holding an infant to emphasize the relationship between the Bodhisattva, maternity, and birth. (7)


Ahimsa and its Impact on Vegetarianism


Gender was not the only change. The doctrine of ahimsa (or non-violence to all living things), once considered fundamental to Indian Buddhism, was also modified. How else to reconcile Buddhists with meat-eating, a practice that conservatives might censure? This too must be seen in the context of local traditions influencing beliefs. 


Some Buddhists avoid eating meat because of Buddhism’s precept to “refrain from taking life;” others abstain based on the Mahayana sutras which forbid flesh consumption. Only in India are Buddhists strictly vegetarian. Elsewhere in the world, they are not, except monks and nuns or only on certain days of the week. 


I recall being scolded by a Buddhist scholar during one of my long ago treks in Nepal. When I expressed surprise at local Terai (plains) people eating buffalo meat (doubly taboo as it’s related to the cow, sacred in South Asian faiths), he retorted, why would you deprive some of the poorest people in the world from consuming the cheapest form of protein? I was suitably rebuked! 


Food habits are almost always shaped by availability and pricing and have very little to do with religion which must adapt to local custom and practice to survive! 


Persecution of Buddhists


Buddhism is considered the oldest “foreign” religion in China and took over a century to become absorbed into Chinese culture. During the Tang dynasty, it became a major part of Chinese life and, although Tang emperors were usually Taoists, they favored Buddhism. 


However, attitudes changed and, from the 5th to the 10th century, Buddhism faced persecution by four Chinese emperors; one of the worst of these campaigns was in 845 CE when Tang Emperor Wuzong, a Taoist, destroyed thousands of monasteries, forced monks and nuns into hiding, and seized monastery wealth and property. The emperor wanted to drive out “foreign” influence and appropriate war funds. 


By then Buddhism had lost favor because monasteries had become a powerful force, monks did not pay taxes, and many young men were entering monastic life to avoid military service.


Buddhism also came into conflict with Confucian intellectuals who said it weakened existing social structures and loyalties (son to father, subject to ruler) by encouraging lay people to abandon their filial duty, renounce their families, and become monks and nuns. (8)


Despite these aberrations, Buddhism (for the most part) thrived among the Chinese population, particularly during the Song dynasty when it moved out of official state patronage and into mainstream life. Meanwhile, the government began to extend control over monasteries as well as the ordination and legal status of monks.


Reshaping the Culture


With its long history, Buddhism is considered the largest institutionalized religion in China. It has played an important role in shaping Chinese civilization and in influencing art, literature, and the prevailing culture.


During the Tang and Song periods, Buddhism contributed to painting and sculpture and advanced the development of printed books and religious architecture. Buddhist themes can be found in much of the period’s art and literature. Tang Empress Wu Zetian, who ruled from 660 to 705 CE, promoted Buddhist cave art, while portraying herself as a Bodhisattva.


Under Deng Xiaoping, who led China from 1978 to 1989, a revival of Buddhism took place when damaged temples and monasteries — that had been destroyed during the Cultural Revolution (1966 to 1976) — were restored. Monks are now allowed to be ordained and to practice. The current “sinicization” policy requires religious institutions to align their doctrines with Chinese culture and communist party leadership.


Laughing Buddha


In India, the Buddha was usually shown in painting and sculpture as an ascetic sitting cross-legged in deep meditation, radiating calm, with his hands in different mudras (or poses). As the religion spread, similar looking Buddhas were sculpted and painted with facial features changing from Gandhara Greek to Mathura Indian and adopting local facial characteristics as it spread eastwards. But perhaps the most radical change came with the Laughing Buddha, a significant departure from the classical Indian image of the slender meditative ascetic! 


Laughing Buddhas may have originated from a Chinese folk deity, based on a 9th century wandering monk. An incarnation of Maitreya, the future Buddha, he is pot-bellied, heavy, bald, robe-clad, carrying a sack, prayer beads, and a beggar’s bowl. These statues are seen in temples, restaurants, gardens, and homes in China and southeast Asia, including Asian restaurants and homes in the U.S. Rubbing his belly is said to bring good luck! Laughing Buddha statues are now the most recognizable and popular Buddhist images in the world!


Conclusion


In China, Buddhism clearly took on the culture into which it migrated. From belief in Buddha’s divinity to a female Boddhisattva, changes in Ahimsa, acceptance of ancestor worship, and evolution of the Laughing Buddha, one could say that Han Buddhist practice has transformed the ancient purist version of Indian Buddhism into a more inclusive and pluralistic set of beliefs.  


I’m not sure I found all the answers I was looking for but I learned a good deal from talking to smart and thoughtful guides, experts, scholars, and fellow travelers — both in western China and my week in Shanghai. It may take more journeys along the Silk Road to come up with definitive theories. Most importantly, I had fun in the process!


Footnotes


(1) Briefly, Buddha taught that dukkha (or grief, suffering) is unavoidable; that the samudaya (or cause) is tanha (or craving, desire) and that avidhya (or ignorance, misconception) can be ended by nirodha (or removal, letting go); also, by leading a moral and disciplined life and adopting the Eightfold Marg (or path) to navigate between extreme self-indulgence and extreme asceticism.


(2) The Kalinga War (262-261 BCE) was fought between the Mauryan Emperor Ashoka and the kingdom of Kalinga on the east coast of India in present-day Odisha state. 


(3) Buddhist scholars regard it as heretical to even consider the Buddha as part of the dashavatar (10 incarnations of the Hindu preserver god, Vishnu)! 


(4) http://luditravel.blogspot.com/2023/10/tree-serpent-early-buddhist-art-in.html


(5) Bodhisattvas or Buddhas-to-be are enlightened beings who choose to remain in the samsara (or cycle of Karmic births and deaths) to help others attain moksha (or freedom). They are revered for deferring their own parinirvana (or ultimate salvation) for the common good.


(6) Around the first century CE, Buddhism divided into two sects: Theravada or Hinayana (which spread to Sri Lanka and southeast Asia) regarded Buddha as a teacher, while Mahayana (which spread to China, Japan, and Tibet) claimed Buddha as divine. In general, Mahayana Buddhists follow the path of the Bodhisattva while Theravada Buddhists follow the path of the Arhat (or already enlightened person).


(7) The Jade Buddha Temple in Shanghai has a shrine to Guanyin.


(8) The concept of renouncing the material world through meditation and tapasya (also, tapas) or penance, is common to all South Asian religions: Hinduism, Jainism, Buddhism, and Sikhism. 


References:

On Hinduism, Doniger, Wendy.

The Wonder That Was India: Vol. I & II, Basham, A.L.  

Ancient China: Chinese Civilization from its Origins to the Tang Dynasty, Scarpari, Maurizio.

The Early Chinese Empires: Qin and Han (History of Imperial China), Lewis, Mark Edward.


Source, Silk Road Maps and Video: Gansu Museum, Shaanxi History Museum


Silk Road Map: network of transcontinental and maritime routes, Gansu Museum

Silk Road Map, Shaanxi History Museum

Silk Road Map, Shaanxi History Museum

Itinerary for Modern Day “Silk Roaders” (Wild China)

Guanyin at Jade Buddha Temple, Shanghai


Bodhisattva Avalokitesvara, Mogao

Seated Buddha Gandhara style


Seated Buddha Mathura style


Buddha Image Mathura style

Ahimsa Symbol

Laughing Buddha


Silk Road Video: Camel Bells & Caravans, Gansu Museum


Monday, June 3, 2024

First Impressions: China vs. India — India Must Catch Up!

I know comparisons are odious but I’m making them anyway! My visit to China (May 11-June 5, 2024 — only the second in two decades — brought up a lot of latent issues. China’s progress is extraordinary; it has surpassed all the usual growth indices, crushed IMF forecasts, and hugely raised living standards. There really is no comparison to any other country. 


Going back to the late 90s, the Indian economy was just opening up after 50 years of stagnation and several international economists were saying that India had the edge over China. Both were at the same level but experts were more gung-ho about India for various reasons, chiefly, the rules of law and governance, democracy, and familiarity with the English language. The one economist who didn’t agree was Nobel Laureate, Amartya Sen. 


I heard Sen give a talk at SAIS, the Johns Hopkins School of Advanced International Studies in Washington, D.C. He cautioned against the hype. The lack of literacy would pull India down, he warned: in China, factory workers could read simple diagrams and numbers and put machinery parts together; in India, the level of illiteracy prevented even those basic tasks. Sen was prescient. China has far outrun not just India but many western countries to become the manufacturing giant and economic powerhouse it is today. Its literacy rate has increased from 66 percent in 1982 to 97.2 percent in 2020 (globaldata.com). India is 77.7 percent.


Infrastructure


Nobody builds infrastructure as rapidly as China or has the money to fund it, both domestically and overseas (witness the Belt and Road Initiative). Having visited India several times over the past decade, I have seen swanky airports and new roads (I hear there’s also a bullet train) but nowhere near enough and not a patch on China’s advanced infrastructure, which surpasses much in the West. China’s trains (I travelled thrice by bullet train and domestic airlines), are a far cry from anything I’ve seen in the U.S. (I’m a veteran of Amtrak travel) and certainly far superior to the more than two day Delhi to Trivandrum train journey I did a few years ago. 


Ever since the 1909 opening of the Zhongshan Bridge (see pic), the first permanent bridge over the Yellow River in Lanzhou — which cost an exorbitant 165,000 silver coins paid to a German construction firm — Chinese engineers and construction companies have themselves designed and built more than a million bridges and laid many more miles of roads and highways, another quite remarkable feat.  


China’s average infrastructure spending was nearly 10 times higher than that of the U.S. and is 4.8 percent of its GDP (Statista.com). India continues to lag behind China in infrastructure investment. 


Air Pollution


In my view, perhaps China’s biggest plus is getting a handle on air pollution. One can actually breathe without coughing and gagging. Whenever I return from India, it is with a hacking cough. Many Delhi friends are suffering from lung problems relating to pollution. One of them used an oxygen machine for five years before he died. Very young children are getting serious bronchial issues. 


Fifteen  years ago, Beijing’s air pollution was far more severe than Delhi. Now the country with the top ten worst polluted cities in the world is India. The failure of Indian authorities to take concrete steps to improve air quality is unforgivable in light of the disastrous consequences to its citizens’ health, wellbeing, and productivity. 


Security 


The lack of safety and security (especially for women) is one of India’s most intractable challenges. Rapes and assaults are an everyday occurrence. Not so in China. I did some travel by myself. I used public transport in Shanghai.  I felt safe.  In India, it is the opposite. 


I recall an incident when another woman and I were taking the night train to Hardwar-Rishikesh.  At Nizamuddin station, our first class carriage was surrounded by men trying to grab us. We were warned by the conductor to shut the windows and keep the carriage doors locked. It was scary. There were similar incidents over the years. In India, women need a sixth sense to survive. I’m not exaggerating. 


Monuments 


China must be commended for its upkeep of heritage monuments and museums. India can and must do a better job of promoting and preserving its ancient artifacts and buildings. I recall that historic temples in southern India under the control of the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) were usually in great shape and properly sign posted. Not so the temples looked after by religious committees which were mainly interested in gouging money from visitors besides pouring milk and ghee over porous stone statues, thereby damaging them! I’ve heard that the ASI Museum in Delhi is dilapidated and hope that authorities will do a better job of maintenance. 


A few years ago, at a high school reunion, I remember being grossed out by the condition of the Kanya Kumari beaches (and the Vivekananda Rock Memorial) at the southern tip of India where the Bay of Bengal and Arabian Sea meet the Indian Ocean. It used to be a splendid place to visit; now it’s like a public latrine — again, not exaggerating — no point building more toilets if people won’t use them! 


I recall a late night bus journey from Khajuraho to Jhansi when the bus suddenly braked in the middle of the road. The driver nearly ran over a group of women, their faces covered, using the highway as a toilet because it was safer than going in the fields! Granted this took place over two decades ago, but it could happen today. 


I was struck that the Shanghai History Museum mentioned the Harappan Civilization (Indus Valley, Mohenjdaro and Harappa). It said that the Liangzhu Culture in China was “synchronous,” that is, around the same period as that of ancient Egypt, ancient Babylon, and the Harappan civilization in ancient India. (See pic). There is in fact evidence that the four traded with each other. 


Since both China and India have over 5,000 plus years of history and civilization, they may want to pool their knowledge, research, and resources to maintain and preserve their archaeological treasures. 


Doing Business


If there’s one thing that drives China it is commerce. You see it everywhere, not just in the small mom and pop stores but the existence of bustling shops of every size and variety as well as large department stores and those selling international brands. One of my guides in Shanghai told me how easy it is to open a business in China both for citizens and foreigners. 


This was confirmed by the World Bank's (sadly, now defunct) Doing Business Annual Report that measured how easy it was for companies to open businesses in WB member countries. Many years ago, China and India were lagging behind other nations but China made huge strides to ease regulations regarding labor and land acquisition, tariffs, and other metrics; as a result, it’s standing shot upwards. India did not quite catch up. According to a recent Reuters story, there may be hope. India’s ruling party is planning  “a raft of business-friendly measures” to rival China and transform India into a global manufacturing hub. 


Speaking English


One area where India still has a definite edge is English. I was surprised that few people — even in China’s five star international hotels — actually speak English. In Xi’an and Lanzhou, it was impossible to communicate by phone. You had to go to the hotel lobby armed with the translation app on the iPhone to make yourself understood. This led to a couple of hilarious incidents. 


At the hotel spa in Xi’an, I had to first get the front desk to intervene. Later, I kept waiting for the treatment to begin — the tea ceremony and foot soaking took forever. I asked on the app if I should shower first and the attendant responded, “wash it and he will come!”  She meant the female masseuse, not some strange man!  


At a restaurant in Turpan, Xinjiang (where we’d eaten the previous night), we ordered beer and the waiter kept nodding as if he understood. We reminded him a couple more times but still no beer — we had to resort to the translation app for the beer to finally arrive! 


Vegetarian and Gluten Free


In my (rather narrow) view, another area where China is behind is in the availability of vegetarian and gluten free cuisine. It was tough for me to get anything beyond vegetable fried rice, bok choy, and eggplant whereas India has such an endless variety of vegetarian and gluten-free food made from basin (chickpea flour). Sadly, my skin sensitivity prevents me from eating more exotic fare (lotus root, wood ear mushroom, bamboo shoots, even tofu).  I was told that in China meat is often added as flavoring. Some fellow travelers suggested I push aside the meat and just eat the veg: not an option for me! 


End of Poverty?


Two years ago, the World Bank touted China’s accomplishment of lifting 800 million people out of poverty. By any standard this is an amazing achievement that India has yet to wrap its arms around. We travelled two weeks in Western China. There were no beggars or homeless people, except for one person outside the mosque in Xi’an. There was no poop on the streets, or paan (betel leaf) spit up, and roads often looked freshly washed and cleaned! (There’s actually more spitting by the — mostly Taiwanese — Chinese population in Flushing, Queens, NY, but that’s an anecdote for another day)! 


The less said about evident poverty in India the better. It is heartrending to see women and kids still crowding around traffic lights or grabbing you as you walk. Poverty is ubiquitous; it’s in your face; you can’t ignore it or pretend it ain’t there!  


Democracy vs. Communism 


Democracy in India (as imperfect as it is) is another factor that has not quite worked in its favor. There is no doubt that China would not have made the progress it has if not for Communism and the ability to get things done without waiting for endless debates and parliamentary committees. 


We are witness to western liberal values being imperiled in America’s upcoming 2024 election with the possible advent of a new kind of authoritarianism that is increasing not just in the U.S. but elsewhere in the world. 


In my view, desis (my erstwhile, though no less beloved, fellow countrymen) are getting the short end of the stick — all the disadvantages and none of the advantages of a faux democracy. Freedom of expression is curtailed and minorities are persecuted but without the benefit of clean air, good jobs, decent health care, electricity without load shedding, reliable drinking water, safety for women, you name it! 


Ludi Joseph

Shanghai 

June 3, 2024




Historic Zhongshan Bridge, Lanzhou


Bridge outside Tianshui

Bullet Train, Turpan

Bullet Train, Lanzhou

Wind Turbines, Xinjiang

Shanghai Harbor

Shanghai History Museum, Mention of Harappa

Shanghai History Museum. Ancient Civilizations Map: China, Babylon, Egypt, India