Tuesday, December 13, 2022


Mum: the Fulcrum of our Lives!


Mum’s can-do spirit was the essence of her being! She always had plans for the future, people to meet, home improvements to undertake, closets to clean, new recipes to try — she never stopped! Last Christmas I helped her bake fruit cakes and cookies with all the endless cutting and mixing, not once, but thrice! 


She was born in the Portuguese territory of Goa on India’s west coast. Her family were Roman Catholic for many generations and were probably converted at the time of the mission to India of Spanish Jesuit, St. Francis Xavier — more than 400 years ago! She was always an Indian loyalist but would’ve been disappointed that Portugal lost in the FIFA World Cup!


Loreto Convent


She and her older sister Millie went to Loreto Convent school in Entally, Calcutta, then British India, more than a thousand miles from Goa. It was a boarding school, Mum was 8 or 9 years old, spoke no English, and only saw her folks once a year. Loreto is known for its Irish nuns and one famous non-Irish, the Albanian-born Mother Teresa (now Saint Teresa), who began her career teaching Bengali and Hindi at Loreto! Mum traveled to Calcutta many years later (as did I) to get a special blessing from Mother Teresa. She also received blessings from a few Popes although not from His Holiness the Dalai Lama, as I used to kid her — I got that during a holiday in Dharamsala, Himachal Pradesh where the Dalai Lama still lives after he fled Tibet ahead of the 1950 Chinese invasion.


Indus Valley


When Mum met my Dad, he was at St. Xavier’s College, Mumbai (Bombay), doing his thesis on deciphering the Indus Valley script under ancient civilization expert, Fr. Heras, a Spanish Jesuit. She was with the British Indian Railways, one of the first Indian women to work for them. They moved to Lucknow where Mum joined the South Vietnamese Consulate and later to New Delhi where she worked for U.S. A.I.D. agencies, Wheat Loans to India and the National Science Foundation. 


Although Dad’s book on the Indus Valley script was published many years later, he spent his early days in Delhi writing articles on Tamil culture, Mohenjodaro and Harappa, and “middles” for newspapers, which Mum prepped for publication. She was very proud of how well Dad was regarded in academic circles. One of the VIPs who came to pay his respects was Mexican poet-diplomat, Octavio Paz, who was ambassador to India at the time; us kids were captivated with his liveried driver and car flying the Mexican flag! Paz later won the Nobel for Literature.


Life in Vikram Vihar


We lived in Vikram Vihar, Lajpat Nagar. Our Block had a great community of kids that grew up together with most of us going to the same school, Frank Anthony’s, playing Cricket, Dog and the Bone, Kabbaddi, and Rounders in the playground outside our homes. Some evenings we would gather on our next door neighbor Mr Dawes’ “charpoy” (cot), strategically placed to catch unsuspecting passersby! He always addressed Mum as “Memsahib” and his jokes made her (and us) blush! Dick, another friend, would bring his guitar and we would sing along to old songs by Pat Boone and Jim Reeves: “Speedy Gonzales” was a fave! The Block celebrated Christmas, Eid-ul-Zuha, Lohri, Holi, Dussehra, Durga Puja, Diwali; neighbors shared trays of homemade food and desserts while children and parents (including mine) participated enthusiastically in the tradition.


Christmas Cake!


At Christmas time, Mum and her BFF-school pal, Margaret Baker, would get together to bake a huge batch of fruit cake. In America, everyone makes jokes about fruit cake (what’s that about?) — I’m referring to the rich, fruity British Indian (Caribbean) variety! Mum would get the ingredients together while the rest of us, Dad included, were roped in to wash, dry, and cut the candied fruit and nuts. The flour, sugar, eggs, butter, rum, brandy, and spices were taken to a baker in Jor Bagh market who had been warned in advance. He deftly mixed the ingredients while Mum and Aunty Margaret helped. It had to be baked outside our home as quantities were so large. I remember going with them one time and getting scolded by the baker for beating the batter in the wrong direction! (“Kya kar rahe ho beta?” What are you doing, child?) which earned me another scold from Mum! We returned home with tin trunks each holding 20-30 pounds of cake which we distributed to friends and neighbors on Christmas morning and mailed to my grandmother in Goa. 


Passings


Mum moved to New York in the 80s followed by my brother Leslie, my sister Lorna, and moi. Sadly, Dad had passed away while we were studying. So did many of our neighbors: the Karambelkars (also Jayant and Mangal), the Georges, Mr Vajpai who took the most evocative b/w photos, our teacher Mr Andrade, the Banerjees, the Dawes’, the Sunderams (and their son Govind), the Sehgals, and non-Block dwellers: Dick, Indus, and Carl. Many had moved away or emigrated: to Oz (Jimmy, Sushma), to Norway (Twinkle, Teddy, Paddy), to Canada (the Sunderams), and many (like us) who came Stateside.


My Old Lady!


In New York, Mum began with a big law firm, then worked with a religious order (Dominican Charities), and later volunteered at the parish church: preparing food packages for the poor and visiting disabled parishioners to pick up groceries. As Leslie said in his Eulogy during the Funeral Mass, many of them were years junior; in fact, one of them was 20 years younger, but Mum still referred to her as “my old lady!” 


We traveled with Mum on many memorable trips: to Egypt, France (Lourdes), Hawaii, the Bahamas, Atlanta and Sydney for the Olympics, an Alaskan cruise, California, New England, Miami, Savannah, and Charleston. She was always up for an adventure and hated being home alone! As Lorna said, she loved to “loaf around!” Such a “desi” expression! 


Mum had a fall, April 2021, and broke her right shoulder. She refused surgery although therapy helped. I spent most of the last 18 months with her in Flushing. She would always make plans about who to meet next, never mind her state of health! It is sad that she never got to see her dear friend, Subramanian Iyer (Uncle Subru to us) from her U.S. Embassy days. She was happiest when surrounded by family and loved to see her only grandchild, Lori.


Farewell!


We finally laid Mummy to rest on December 10 with the Wake/Visitation the previous evening. I think she would have liked the elegance of the sendoff! Msgr. Edward Wetterer spoke eloquently at the Wake as did Mum’s only surviving brother, Msgr. Nicholas Soares, who also celebrated the Funeral Mass with Fathers Vincentius Do and Jaime Hernandez at St. Michael’s Church in Flushing. Most of Mum’s family (the Soares clan in New York) were present, including her youngest sibling, my aunt Laura Doyle, and other friends and church volunteers who worked with her. The hymns chosen, Nearer My God To Thee, Abide With Me, Precious Lord, Take My Hand, and How Great Thou Art were meaningful: the first two (along with Lead Kindly Light) were favorites of Mahatma Gandhi who played them when he was incarcerated by the British during India’s freedom struggle. Abide With Me (until recently, when it was deemed too Colonial!) was played at every Beating The Retreat in Delhi, a symbolic ceremony that occurs a few days after the Republic Day Parade in January. 


Mum was one tough lady, indestructible to the end! At times her health seemed to decline but her unflagging spirit was such that she would always rally — to our delight and the surprise of her doctors — until she did not. We were privileged to have her in our lives for many years. She had a spark and a warmth that she shared with all. She leaves a void. 


Ludi Joseph
New York
December 12, 2022

Cell: 202-360-0692



Mum as a young woman

Mum in Miami, 2018



Mum at home

Mum and Ludi


Mum and Lorna


Lori, Kathy, Leslie


Lori, Mum


Kathy, Leslie, Mum
Mum and Leslie





Mum and Moi in the Bahamas





Mum and Dad’s Wedding Picture
Above: Ludi, Lorna, Leslie
Below: Ludi, Mum, Leslie, Dad, Lorna
(Pics by Mr. Vajpai)


Ludi, Leslie, Lorna in Delhi (pic by Mr. Vajpai)



Mum and Leslie in Delhi











Friday, April 22, 2022



Remembering Uncle Phil!     


We lost my youngest uncle Phil Soares on April 15. The day was both Good Friday and Passover and, some might say, perhaps an auspicious day to go.  


Monsignor Edward Wetterer, now retired — who used to be with St. Michael’s Parish in Flushing, NY and knew Phil well — wrote in a text to my mother, “Dear Evelyn and Family, Your brother Phil has a special place in my heart. Good Friday: what a beautiful day for his passing from this world! He’s in good company.  Blessings, Monsignor Edward.”


The Dashing Young Man from Das Island!


My earliest memories of Phil are of a dashing young man who visited us when we lived in India. As school kids, we were intrigued with his yarns and tall stories! No women were allowed on Das Island (in the Arabian Gulf) where he worked. So, while staying with us in New Delhi, he made up for lost time by meeting up with his many, many girlfriends! 


I remember this pair of stylish cat-eyed  sunglasses he gave me.  I have a picture (see below) of Uncle Phil and I standing together in bright sunlight in our Lajpat Nagar “compound” (courtyard).  I was all of 9 or 10 years old, in white shorts and tee, wearing said sun glasses, and feeling oh-so-proud! 


Phil was always the life and soul of the party! He had a quip and a joke about everything. Even when he lost his sight to glaucoma, he hardly missed a beat! He was my singing and often my ballroom dance partner at Soares family gatherings where we always initiated the “singalong.”


Golden Oldies and Konkani Songs 


We were continuing a tradition of singing Golden Oldies and Konkani songs at my aunt Laura’s house that was begun by my late Uncle Tony Soares who used to serenade my dearly departed grandmother “Mai” (Virginia Soares) with “mandos” (folk music) from her native Goa for Christmas, Easter, Thanksgiving, birthdays, and other family gatherings.


I found this photo from April 2017 of an Easter gathering with the four Soares siblings and two in-laws: Phil, Laura, Mum (Evelyn), Rev. Msgr. Nicholas, Aunty Blanche, Oscar — all smiling, all looking happy! Now a key member of that generation — one of the “intrepid six” — is sadly gone! 


We will miss you, Uncle Phil! It's time to rest peacefully! We celebrate you, always!  


Ludi Joseph

New York 

April 21, 2022


Note that much of the above text was read aloud at Phil’s funeral service on April 20, 2021. As a tribute to their dad, Phil’s daughters, Lynette and Joan, did a great job organizing the Mass, committal service, and lunch reception. It was very well done, right down to the Angel mementos! See family pictures below. 



Soares Siblings: Phil, Laura, Nicholas, Mum at Monsignor
Nicholas Soares’ 2014 Golden Jubilee, Staten Is., NY

Soares Siblings & In-laws, April 17, 2017: Blanche,
Mum, Fr. Nicholas, Oscar, Phil, Laura



Funeral Mass, April 20, 2021, St. Michael’s, Flushing, NY
With Monsignors Nicholas Soares and Edward Wetterer


At the Lunch Reception, April 20, 2021: A. Blanche, Oscar, Fr. Nicholas, Laura, Mum



At the Lunch Reception, April 20, 2021: Laura, Mum, Lorna


Father’s Day, 2021: Phil with his son, David



Lorna and I took Phil to Vote, Nov. 2, 2021




Phil with Family and Friends




Wearing the famous Cat-Eyed Sunglasses:
Phil and I in New Delhi, India

Wednesday, February 16, 2022

Rest In Peace, Dear Mr. Phillips!


Sad news about our former teacher Vernon Phillips who taught us at the Frank Anthony Public School (FAPS) in Delhi. I heard from his daughter Zoë Restorick that he passed away recently in Ottawa, Canada. “It’s hard to believe that he’s really gone,” she said.


Looking Back!


My FAPS classmates and I remember Mr. Phillips fondly. He taught us Geography in middle school, part of a Social Studies curriculum. He also taught English. I remember him being a wonderful teacher as well as a kind and lovely man! He and his wife Marjorie Texeira (also a FAPS school teacher) moved to Canada. 


He was handsome and she was pretty! As impressionable 12- and 13-year-olds, we were excited and dazzled by such a classic romance! Those were the days when we had our noses stuck in Mills and Boon romantic novels!


Fulfilling Career


I understand from Zoë that, after he left FAPS, her father had a long and fulfilling teaching career in Canada. He became vice principal of a school while her mother was the supervisor of several daycare centers for young children.  


Zoë posted on FaceBook, “He had the most contagious joie de vivre and made friends everywhere he went. And, as much as he loved people and animals, he loved his food! From Anglo-Indian cuisine to poutine, he loved it all! He loved to laugh, he never stopped learning, and he made us groan with his classic dad jokes!” 


Keeping Memories Alive!


Apparently, Mr. Phillips also liked Suji Halwa and Kheer  — that’s semolina pudding and rice pudding! I found Zoë just by chance (coincidence, really) while glancing at a FaceBook group, Anglo Indian Kitchen, where I saw a post from her saying that she was trying to keep her Dad’s memory alive by cooking the foods he enjoyed, such as Suji Halwa!  She mentioned that he’d recently passed. When I saw the name, I just had to ask: is this the same Vernon Phillips from FAPS in Delhi — and it was! 


More sad news! When I wondered what became of her mother, Zoë said “my Mum is still alive but suffers from Alzheimer’s and has been in a home for many years now.”  


Thankfully, Zoë also has great memories of her mother whom she recalls as always being “glamorous, well-groomed, and well-dressed… she loved to entertain family and friends and create mouthwatering feasts for us all!”


RIP


One expects that, with the passage of time, our former teachers will pass. Still, it’s sad when it happens. May Zoë and family find comfort in all the special memories! And, Rest in Peace, dear Mr. Phillips!  


Ludi Joseph

New York

February 16, 2022


Update from Zoë: “My parents divorced when I was three. They subsequently remarried. My mother is currently known as Marjorie Gordon. Our blended family includes a total of six siblings and 10 grandchildren. Dad was 81 when he died.”


Pics courtesy of Zoë Restorick. 


Vernon Phillips

Vernon Phillips
Vernon Phillips with grandson, Brennan
  

Marjorie Texeira




Sunday, November 28, 2021


Sauce Making!  

I’ve been trying out some sauces (both sweet and savory — ‘tis the season, after all!) — and, even if I say so myself, they came out quite good, edible even! 


The word sauce is Old French, based on Latin salsus (meaning salted) and comes from sal “salt.” The French might indeed swear by their four classic sauces: Espagnole, Velouté, Béchamel, and Tomate — mine are more basic, more practical, more everyday!  


Classic Brandy Butter Sauce


The most fun one to make (and to eat, for obvious reasons!) was the brandy butter sauce which is ideal to pour over Christmas puddings, pies, or any kind of dessert. It is rich, sweet, easy to make, and best of all, traditional! 


Ingredients: 


1/2 cup unsalted butter 

2 cups milk 

1/2 cup flour 

4 tablespoons superfine sugar

1/2 cup brandy or cognac

1/2 cup grated zest from 1 orange


NOTE: I used half a stick of Horizon organic unsalted butter, Horizon organic 2 percent milk, self-raising gluten free flour, and a combination of Rémy Martin and Fundador Brandy de Jerez from Spain. Vegans can substitute with almond or oat milk and cashew butter. 


Melt butter in a saucepan over low heat, add flour, and stir quickly to create a smooth lump-free paste. Add milk, stirring constantly. The flour needs to cook for several minutes. Do not let the base of the pan catch or burn. Taste to ensure flour is cooked — believe me, nothing is as yukky as raw flour! Use a hand whisk to break up flour lumps, if necessary. Add the sugar, a little at a time, until it is fully dissolved. Finally, add the brandy and keep stirring. Cook another few minutes (always on low heat). Again, taste-test the sauce to ensure the flour is cooked!  Add more milk, if too thick. 


Serve warm over a Christmas pudding or vanilla wafers or ginger cookies! Delish! As you can see in the pics, we served it with thin slices of warm plum pud and pumpkin pie!  


If you’re feeling brave, add a dash of Grand Marnier or some other liqueur just before serving. Don’t try to flambé it — leave that to the showy chefs at the cordon bleu restaurants! Don’t risk serious burns! 


White Savory Sauce 


This is a basic white sauce that goes with almost any steamed vegetable — but we always do it with cauliflower!  My Mum learned it in high school in Calcutta (Loreto Convent, Entally) where she was taught by Irish nuns. I guess it must’ve been something that the nuns used to soothe palates after the heavily spiced Indian food!  The only other person at whose home we ate this sauce was Aunty Margaret (Baker, nee Mullins), a school chum of Mum’s. So it is probably Brit/Anglo Indian in origin!  Growing up in Lucknow and then Delhi, my siblings and I used to love it: white sauce over cauliflower — here you go!


Ingredients:


2 tablespoons unsalted butter 

2 tablespoons flour 

1 cup milk

Salt (1/4 tsp)

Pepper (2 shakes) 

Optional: 

2 tsp Cheddar Cheese Grated

1/4 tsp Crushed Garlic or Garlic Powder

1/2 tsp Fresh Chopped Basil 

1/2 tsp Fresh Chopped Parsley


NOTE: Again, I used gluten free flour since I’m gluten-sensitive. If vegan, use almond milk and cashew butter.  


Melt butter in a saucepan over low heat. Add flour and stir until the butter and flour are combined. Pour in milk, stirring as it thickens. Break up any lumps. Add pepper and salt. Add more milk, if too thick. Taste if the flour is cooked. 


Adding the garlic powder, cheese, and chopped herbs enhances the flavor, depending on what you are serving with the sauce. Like I said, we always steam a whole cauliflower to go with the sauce but you can also use potatoes, button mushrooms, green beans, asparagus, or even pasta.  


Savory Brown Wine Sauce


This is the counterpart to the white sauce and has many of the same ingredients except for the wine and broth. It tastes best when poured over roasted vegetables such as Brussels sprouts, carrots, parsnips, squash or roasted meat. 


Ingredients:


2 tablespoons butter 

2 tablespoons flour 

1 cup milk

3/4 cup red wine

Vegetable broth (1/4 cup) or 1 Vegetable Cube

Salt (1/4 tsp)

Pepper (2 shakes) 

Optional: 

1/4 tsp Crushed Garlic or Garlic Powder

1/2 tsp Fresh Chopped Basil 

1/2 tsp Fresh Chopped Parsley


Melt butter in a saucepan over low heat. Add flour and stir until the butter and flour are combined. Pour in milk, stirring as it thickens. Break up any lumps.  Add pepper and salt. Taste if the flour is cooked.  Add wine and broth and more milk, depending on how thin or thick you want the sauce to be.


Those with small children can omit the alcohol altogether or use smaller quantities — but it won’t taste as good! When we were kids, we often had an egg flip for breakfast on cold winter mornings when we felt a cough or cold coming on — with a teaspoon of brandy — with no after effects!  


The best thing about these sauces is that they can be done ahead of time, refrigerated, and then reheated when the pudding or pie or roast — that you’re serving it with — is ready. For longer storage, pack sauces in airtight containers and freeze; when ready to serve, reheat on stove top on very low heat. 


Hint: To add richness, add two tablespoons of heavy cream or half and half before serving. Keep stirring to ensure the sauces don’t clump or congeal!  Beware the heavily coagulated “floury” sauces — keep them light and airy!  


Ludi Joseph

New York

November 28, 2021


NB: Brandy de Jerez comes from Andalusia, Spain. “Jerez” is another word for sherry and the region is famous for its sherry production.


 

Classic Brandy Butter Sauce 


Classic Brandy Butter

Steamed Cauliflower

Cauliflower with White Sauce

Making the White Sauce


Making the Brown Wine Sauce 





Saturday, November 6, 2021

Natasha McCoo’s Russian Salad and Lorna’s Eggplant Pakoras!

Culinary expert and frequent recipe contributor, Natasha Garrett McCoo, has posted several amazing recipes on Anglo Indian Kitchen, a popular group page on Facebook. Mum, who is a huge Natasha fan, wanted to try the Russian Salad. Here we go with a few tweaks. 


Russian Salad Recipe 


1-1/2 cups Potatoes, diced

1 cup Green Beans, diced 

1 cup Carrots, diced

1 large Red Pepper, diced 

1 large Apple, diced

1/2 lb Green Grapes, sliced

250 gm Can Diced Pineapple

1 cup Heavy Cream  

1/2 cup Sour Cream

1/2 cup Mayonnaise

Large Salad Bowl to serve


Boil vegetables (each one separately) until they soften but remain crunchy. Cool and mix all ingredients well. Cover dish with Clingfilm and keep refrigerated until ready to use. 


Note that we used less sour cream and Mayo; the original recipe called for a cup of each. It’s a matter of taste.  


This dish can be made ahead of time — a day in advance — for a party. Steaming potatoes with their skins on and peeling them later adds flavor as well as nutritional value.


Background: Russian Salad (or Ensalada Rusa) can be found in restaurants across Russia and is traditionally served at holiday gatherings and birthday parties with local variations in many Eastern European countries: Bulgaria, Hungary, Poland, and Ukraine. It was invented in the 1860s by Chef Lucien Olivier for a Moscow restaurant called Hermitage. 


Lorna’s Eggplant Pakoras


Last week we went to an Indian restaurant in Queens, NY called Ayna Agra in Bayside, which turned out to be surprisingly good - well, everything except the eggplant pakoras (spiced fritters) which were a bust mainly because they used onion instead of eggplant!  So we decided to try these ourselves. Lorna is the chef in the family!  Check out her version:


Eggplant Pakora Recipe 


1 large Eggplant (best from Indian stores) - Sliced, but not too thinly

Gram/Chickpea Flour - 1 Cup

Rice Flour - 1/2 Cup

Turmeric - 1/4 Tsp

Cumin Powder - 1/4 Tsp

Red Chilli Powder - 1/4 Tsp

Hing (Asafoetida) - a Pinch

Baking Soda - a Pinch 

Cilantro leaves chopped - 1 Tsp (optional)

Salt to taste 

Wok (or Karai) to fry pakoras 

Cooking Oil


Mix the gram and rice flours well with a half cup of water and add other dry ingredients. Whisk to a smooth medium consistency without lumps. The batter should be a bit runny. Add more water if needed. Drop in the eggplant slices and coat well with batter. (I made the mistake of cutting the eggplant too thin - don’t do that)! When all slices are well coated, deep fry on both sides in medium hot oil. 


Use any neutral oil with a high smoking temperature. We used Filippo Berio Extra Light Olive Oil for Frying and Baking. Using a slotted spoon, lay pakoras on paper towels to absorb excess oil. (Do that to avoid consuming too much oil - your arteries will thank you)!  Pakoras should be crisp and evenly brown. 


Serve with hot spiced Indian tea as a snack or with rice and dhal (lentils) as a meal. A green mint or coriander chutney goes well with pakoras or even tomato ketchup!  


Try this recipe with Potatoes (Aaloo) or Cauliflower (Gobi) or even the above despised Onion (Pyaaz)!  I recall that Pakoras and Adrak Chai (Spiced Ginger Tea) were the go-to snack on rainy afternoons in Delhi!  Happy eating!  


Ludi Joseph

New York

November 6, 2021


Lorna and Mum in Charleston, SC, 2018

Russian Salad

Eggplant Pakoras