The monsoon in Bangkok can be relentless! The rain poured almost non-stop for three days. My group went on a treasure hunt all morning in the rain - through historic palaces and temples, the Sleeping Buddha monument, as well as a slushy melange of streets, bazaars, and roadside food vendors! The hunt combined tourism, knowledge of all things Thai, lots of fun, and a foot massage!
Treasure Hunt
We went by speeding motor boat (the famous Bangkok river ferry) the entire way. The Chao Phraya River was turbulent with huge waves washing over the prow. For me, the mere act of getting on and off the crazily rocking boat at the various "clue" stops was the most challenging part!
In the end, the hunt had to be called off before any of the teams won. After the foot massage, the rain came down even harder; our shoes were squelching; we were soaking wet (despite our ponchos) and rather miserable! So we gladly abandoned the hunt and went to a lovely Thai lunch instead - despite our bedraggled state.
Cruise
The treasure hunt was just one part of a program that included long and sometimes fractious work-related meetings. We ended the day with a dinner cruise and dancers performing stories from the Hindu epic, the Ramayana. One of the dancers was dressed as the popular monkey god Hanuman, a staple of such dance demonstrations. There was also a band with two singers doing American pop and country music - that sounded a bit incongruous in the very oriental setting!
Cruising through the natural beauty of the surrounding countryside, the historic ruins on either side of the boat provide a window into Thailand's rich past and the glory of this ancient city.
Oriental Hotel
The Mandarin Oriental where we stayed is considered one of the best in the world. It really is quite luxe. The last time I was here (10 plus years ago) I stayed longer and went to the ancient city of Ayutthya to see the giant Buddhas.
Bangkok has changed a good deal but the Oriental is timeless. It was nostalgic to once again check out the reading room and author’s lounge which has entertained the likes of Somerset Maugham, James Michener, Joseph Conrad, and Graham Greene – all of whom stopped by more than half a century ago!
Royal Palace
Situated in the heart of Bangkok’s Rattanakosin Island, the shining spires of the Grand Palace are located near Bangkok’s most spectacular temples, including the Temple of the Emerald Buddha (Wat Phra Kaeo), the Temple of Dawn (Wat Arun), and Wat Pho, which features an enormous reclining Buddha.
Funny story about the palace: I had to get a skirt/sarong to cover my fully-clothed legs; you can't go into the palace which represents the king (who is considered to be god by the Thai people) wearing leggings as I was (or shorts or sleeveless shirts) as it's disrespectful!
Chao Phraya
A word about the evocative Chao Phraya River, Bangkok's historic waterway. Like all urban rivers, it’s history is intertwined with the city it flows through. The city's original site was chosen by early settlers because of the fertile land and abundant fish. After the fall of Ayutthaya to the Burmese, King Taksin located his new capital in Bangkok.
King Rama I founded modern Bangkok in 1782 and celebrated the occasion by building some of the world's most beautiful temples close to the river. More than 50,000 people still use river ferries each day and you can see heavy-laden barges busily plying the waterway.
On either side of the river is a wonderfully chaotic jumble of hotels, apartments, temples, stupas, churches, and civic buildings that help to make Bangkok look modern and traditional, religious and secular.
Just like the Oriental, many new hotels have chosen river-front locations, once again making the river the focal point of the city
Buddhist Monks
There are more than 400 functioning Buddhist temples in Bangkok. The best time to visit them is in the early morning when it is cooler and less crowded. They play an important part in Buddhist traditions.
Monks live in the temple complexes, wake up at 4 am, perform their religious duties and then collect food and other necessities from people on the streets. These rituals (called "tak bakht" in Thai, "bhiksha" in Sanskrit) takes place all over the country and is part of the Buddhist philosophy of asking for and giving alms to attain a better life beyond this one.
I spotted several saffron-robed monks collecting "bhiksha." The goal of "bhiksha" is self-effacement or the conquering of one's ego; it is a Hindu tradition (practiced by "sadhus" or holy men) that was incorporated into Buddhism.
Buddhism came to Thailand from India in the third century BC when, according to tradition, the Indian emperor Ashoka sent two missionaries to the Mon kingdom of Dvaravati.
Theravada Buddhism
Although Buddhism came directly from India, the form eventually adopted in Thailand was Theravada (or Hinayana) developed in Sri Lanka and based on Pali texts. Emperor Ashoka's sister is said to have gone to Lanka (as it was then known) to spread the religion.
By the early 13th century - when the first Thai sovereign state was founded in Sukhothai - Buddhist monks living in the south had become familiar with the Theravada doctrine of the Lanka school. King Ramkamhaeng met these monks and invited them back to his capital to establish the religion which was embraced by the entire country.
Becoming a monk and renouncing materialism and domestic life (even temporarily) remains central to the practice of Buddhism in Thailand. Many young men become ordained and enter a monastery for a couple of months.
Buddhism has been Thailand's most unifying factor; it runs through the country's cultural and social fabric and is as powerfully visible today as it probably was 700 years ago.
Ludi.
Bangkok Airport, September 28, 2012
Photos and text from my iPad
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| Buddhist Monk |
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| Sleeping Buddha |
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| Feet of Sleeping Buddha |
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| Bangkok Palace |
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